Firsty I would like to say Hi to all u fellow Europa owners and builders. I have quickly realised this is a LOT bigger job than I thought, but i guess the satisfaction will be there when it finally t
Not that I all that old, but maybe switching the struts for the older style thing used to hold up hatches etc in vans and kitchens could work. they lock at about 1 inch intervals. you just open them
Not sure about the restrictor, but as for the epoxy (redux) in the fuel, I have tried similar in the past, but found the epoxy would break down after a few months and ended up laying in the bottom of
Possibly my intent was mistaken here, as you say gasoline has little to do with methanol other than they are both fuels. The application I was referring to was a race bike. As some one else mentions
Well I'm 183cm, and had no problems with the height in a friends 90% complete kit, Mind you I only weigh about 75-80 kg, I am about 100 hours into my kit, One thing I am considering is narrowing the
Just a thought, but if everyone is so concerned about VNE, Flutter etc would it not be worth commisioning a computer modeling simulation for a few thousand dollars, as was done with the lancair, and
Thanks for the reply, as far as my post goes, I have no problems with flying at VNE, When i did my licence it was mostly in a Piper Tomahawk, most tomies are slow and predictable except for the stall
<<A thought occurred to me: why not have a tube machined that is one piece, the length from TP5 inboard to TP6 outboard and replacing both those bushings, instead of 2 bushes with space between them?
Thats why this part of the flight envelope is generally called coffin corner cause you go any slower you stall, go any faster you break the plane, have a look at the service envelope charts for a pip
This may seem like an odd suggestion but has anyone considered a setup something simmilar to the air intake on the P51 mustang, but instead of air intake, use it for housing of radiators. Clearly the
congrats on your success Say, I thought I'd share a story with you - you, who have the original trailer..... It's been so long in the build, and the trailer was at home, I thought to see how well the
Seeing all this discussion about the size of prop allowable on Mono's prompts me to ask if anyone knows what the largest prop for the Tri is 62".... 64"....66"?? given the different static angles on
i have seen a few of you talking about your ailerons sagging a bit at the tips, and using a third hinge, so i was thinking about moving the centre hinge inboard about 200mm and fitting the third hing
yes i went for moving the "outer" hinge to 20mm inside the mass balance, and then the new outer third hinge about 80mm or so from the tip, just in case i need to trim the length down a bit thanks all
I have seen a few people discussing raising the seat back height by an inch or two to accommodate a larger main tank and then switching to an alloy tank or simmilar as part of the process of replacin
steve, have you considered a kevlar or CF tank, the way i was thinking of going was doing a blank of the bigger tank out of foam,try it in place, then assuming all is good do a few layups of kevlar o
I cant remember where, but I saw a US site that had Reman (rebuilt) rotax 914, they were about 8 or 10k off new list price Is there anyone out there that has a new or low time 914 they want to sell?
I did simmilar at the build stage, replaced the whole lot with alloy tube and ran it about another 100mm into the outer foam past where tp6 would finish. weight increase over the tp5 and tp6 was abou
A couple of sacrificial annodes would resolve the issue of corrosion I think, same as on outboard motors for boats but it is a good point, or if you had the clearance, maybe powder coating the torque
yes true, but I believe that the annodes used on outboard motors are zinc, being more reactive than the alloy thus the alloy and the nickle should both become cathodes and therefore not corrode. The