>>There are numerous elaborations on this theme beyond Peter Kembers "rod in
the slot" method, involving ratchets, plungers etc. but at the end of the day
why not adopt the "lever in gate" principle used for the undercarriage. <<
I still think Jon Tye's cam is the neatest and most practical. Take a 1 1/4"
disc, drill a 3/16" hole 1/4" from one edge. Drill another hole in the console
5/16" in front of the brake lever and put an anchor nut behind it. Nylon washer
between the disc and the console for friction All it needs now is a handle, not
too long that it can foul the throttle. We cut our cam and handle from a piece
of aluminium angle. With the brake off the handle lies back along the edge of
the console.
If the brake system is fully bled, ie no air in it, the brake will be quite
solid. The lever only comes back an 1/8th of an inch or so for full braking
power. However, the pads wear and the system isn't self adjusting, so the
movement will slowly increase. Allow for another 3/8th inch of movement in your
cam system. When you top up pull the lever gently back before taking the filler
cap off, then slowly add fluid and simultaneously allow the lever to return
keeping air out of the high point, which is the front end of the master
cylinder.
Graham
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