Everyone has different work techniques so it is difficult to predict what
anyone will think is absolutely required in the way of tools for a particular
task. However, the list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've
come up with a more expansive (expensive?) list.
Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow them if
possible.
In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill bits
etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the following:
Tools and gadgets for Europa construction:
Hand Tools:
Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging
Center punch, automatic
Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to
C clamps.
Cold chisel - to cut control cable
Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points
Countersink, 45 degree
Dial caliper - optional but very useful
Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed.
Hacksaw
Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long
Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?)
Hot glue gun
Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level
Long board sander - as used for autobody work
Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?)
Paint pen, optional, available at art stores
Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker
Pad saw (aka back saw)
Pop riveter
Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for
many things including as a mini-squeegee when filling
pinholes.
Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife
trim stage. Many other uses.
Respirator, with activated charcoal filters
Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?)
Scribe, carbide tip
Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler.
Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline
Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful
Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well.
Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc.
Tape measure
Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?)
Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred
Tubing cutter
Utility knife
Wire crimper for electrical terminals
Wood chisel, 1/2"
Power Tools:
Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on
Tufnol. Handy for fitting the footwell floors and fuselage
rear bulkhead too.
Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks
work great for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming.
The drum sanders work well on glass. The wire brush
removes foam and micro from glass prior to bonding.
Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due
to heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll
end up buying a new tool.
Drill press - required
Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save
some time since often one must drill holes and then
enlarge or countersink them.
Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice.
Orbital sander - saves time, not required.
Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill.
Router - handy if you happen to have one
Shop vacuum - required
Things you make
Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so
that it is about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a
nice fillet when applying flox or micro in a corner. Wipe
it off when you're done and re-use. It will last forever,
preserved in epoxy.
Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold
sandpaper worked for me. Used with electric drill to fit
the control stick.
Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued
on using rubber cement.
Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left
over from wing inspection ports instead of plywood - for
flexibility.
Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for
long board sander as found at auto stores.
Shop Aprons
Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and
squeegees. Foam blocks work fine for this.
Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber
cemented to them. Make several with different grits.
Consumables
Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making
more precise patterns than using paper. Can be cut with
scissors. I found this at the local newspaper where they
use the sheets in the printing process.
Fish line
Hot glue sticks
Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
Masking tape
Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware
store. Use for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts
with the sticky nuts.
Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort
Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes,
etc. Also use to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking.
Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper
Sandpaper
Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of
vinyl tubing slipped over the nose to seal to the surface
while injecting. Can often be washed and re-used.
Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go
over them. Use string gloves as liners to absorb
perspiration.
I'm certain some things have been forgotten, plus I'm not done building yet.
Any suggestions for additions to the list?
John A044 Newtown, CT
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