All,
Fred's right, it can be hard to make a good job with a fly cutter, however I
get good results on thin ali sheet as follows:
1. Stick the sheet on to a piece of flat hard wood using double sided sticky
tape, sparingly, see 5.
2. Grind the fly cutter's tool so that its external edge is parallel to the
spindle and the cutting edge is sharp.
3. Use a pillar drill on its slowest speed, and take very light cuts.
4. Don't cut right through but leave a few .001" 's intact to eliminate the
risk of catastrophic break through. Ths discs can be popped out later.
5. Carefully prise off the sheet taking care not to deform it. Excess use
of the double sided tape make this difficult so use the minimum.
6. De-burr with one of those nice tools with a swivelly tip,
Dave Simpson
-----Original Message-----
From: Fillinger@aol.com <Fillinger@aol.com>
Date: 12 May 1999 06:01
Subject: Re: Beyond the manual
>On 5/10/99, Paul Lowe wrote --
>
>> To install the 6 main instruments, I was going to fit them to an
aluminium
>> plate, let into a rectangular cut hole in the panel.
>> (i) Is 2mm strong enough or is 3mm required?
>> (ii) What grade of aluminium should I purchase?
>> (iii) As forgiving as composite material is, aluminium is not,
especially
>> when I cut it, does anyone produce a precut ali panel to hold these
>> instruments, I don't want part of the instrument scan in the future, to
>> include looking at a miss cut panel. I was going to use a re ground fly
>> cutter, is there a better method?
>> (iv) There are many fixing within the cockpit module, anchor bolts,
nuts,
>> bolts and hydraulic pipes, is there a light weight sound proofing
material
>> which can be used to cover the module, cut around these, to provide a
flat
>> surface for the upholstery?
>
>Hello, Paul --
>
>A fly cutter will make a mess on ali. But one way to cut the hole is use
the
>fly cutter to manually scribe the desired hole, then drill out a circular
>series of holes within the scribed circle. Remove the hole and clean it up
>initially with a rotary rasp or rotary file. Then finish with emery cloth
>wrapped around a 2-inch or so wood dowel. I use a hood with magnifying
glass
>in front of the eyes (most useful Europa tool I have) for tasks like this,
as
>you can file away right up to the score with great accuracy with it.
>
>The placement of the three or four mounting holes may not come out to your
>liking without first making a drilling template. Recommended.
>
>2 mm aluminum alloy (2024 would be OK, not commercial ali) is preferable,
as
>3 mm will recess the instruments too much for good appearance. The real
>problem is, though, instrument spacing as, the closer together they are,
the
>floppier the assembly will be, whether aluminum or Europa's plywood
sandwich.
> Since panel space is limited, I'm planning on instruments which will
reduce
>the hole count (and weight too). Rocky Mountain Instruments
>(http://rkymtn.com/rmi.htm) has a round 3-incher that will replace the
>altimeter, airspeed, VSI, remote encoder, and even more if desired.
>
>On the seat back hardware which will annoy the seat fabric, I would let it
do
>so and avoid the extra weight of protective foam. Vinyl can take it, and
if
>you use fabric (the sun will heat up vinyl nicely thru the door's
"perspex"),
>it will sooner need replacing anyway due to the abuse you'll give it
getting
>in and out. As to the brake hydraulic lines -- I will be running them
>trough a channel fabricated from bid, down the left side straight back to
>port side gear leg ribs. It will be located between the bottom of the
>upholstered side panel and left side of the carpet. FAA in this country may
>not like Europa's routing and potential chafing. Can you still do that?
>
>Hope this helps! ---
>
>Regards,
>Fred Fillinger, A063
>
>
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