>I feel like I'm sending an e-mail to the two experts . . . so here goes . .
Hey, it's nice when there's more than one doctor in town when
your looking for answers . . .
>Bob and John . . . what is recommended where you want to be able to do a
>wiring disconnect (for example, tail light going into fuselage . . . nav
>lights going into wing ribs). What do you use, where do you get it . . .
>and if it needs a crimping tool, what do you recommend? I know this is
>basic, but you can save me a bunch of reading.
>Thanks in advance,
Are your talking about wing roots, etc? Do you plan folding or
removable wings? I know of very few certified ships that have
had wings removed even once in their 30+ year lifetimes. Unless
you PLAN to open and remate electrical connections a lot, then
run solid wires through the area. Put service loops in of about
6" of wire so that if you ever DO pull the wings, you have slack
to accomodate butt splices . . . the single most reliable means
for rejoining an opened wire.
For wires at fixture locations, again, the butt slice is the
#1 choice for dealing with single wires. The likelihood that
you're going to cut out and replace a splice more than once
over the lifetime of the airplane is very small.
Nav lights are unique in terms of power distribution. They
are two amps each and you could wire with 22AWG wire for each
bulb but you have to breaker the system for total loads of
6+ amps. This means that you have to use a 7A breaker/fuse
as a minimum which drives wire size to 20AWG. If it's a composite
airplane, using 18AWG will get you a little more light at the
lamps 'cause the round trip is longer for power and ground . . .
and 18AWG wire in nav light circuits wouldn't be out of line.
Stay with a 7A fuse.
Does this help?
Bob . . .
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