Hi! Troy.
No disrespect to Graham, but I recall that I wished I had never seen the
stern post when I was fitting it. However I will admit that once in and
complete the result is a much stronger assembly.
I recall that it didn't have anything like the correct angles of the return
of the two sides which made it impossible to get into place without a heat
gun to make it pliable., even then I had every clamp available and more
straightedges than I care to remember.
I also recall that the PORT side return was about 1" short at the bottom
running out to size at the top. One problem was that the stern post had to
traverse over the fin to fuselage joints which had to be sanded well down to
retain some strength. I used ply wood in the bottom then really well and
truly 'potted' the stern post into place with a generous helping of redux.
So that it oozed out everywhere. I then put one ply of bid over the entire
closeout. With additional plies at the hinge points.
The one thing in favour of the sternpost method is that since it is so
strong you can use some cleco's to set up the rudder actually in place to
ensure there is leading edge clearance and full angular swing complete with
hinges before you do the final redux potting.
Don't forget that the rudder rises in one direction so you need clearance at
the top of the close out to allow it. Also you will probably putting a VHF
antena in the close out so you need to have room for the coax joint etc.
also don't forget your tail wheel gear hole and the holes for the rudder
cables.
All IMHO of course!!!!!
Regards
Bob Harrison Kit 337 Europa /Jabiru 3300 G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of TroyMaynor@aol.com
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2000 12:54 AM
Subject: Fin Attach
Hi All,
This question is for those who have the classic and are using Graham
Singleton's sternpost. I am about to attach the fin and I can't seem to
locate a reference as to where and how many layups are required when fitting
the fin onto the top molding and sternpost. I'm aware of the two ply BID one
that goes on the base of the fin. Are the ones in the manual (the UNI and
the
local hinge reenforcements of BID) required when using the sternpost? It
appears obvious that some tie-in layups are necessary at the top as well on
the port side, where the sternpost does not extend as far aft as the fin
vertical flange. I do plan to use plenty of redux/flox to insure an good
seam
bond.
Is a 1/4" blue foam spacer a suitable spacer under the fin (if properly
sealed with micro) instead of plywood strips?
What other problems should I watch out for?
Thanks Folks.
Troy Maynor
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