---From repeated bad experiences with angle bracket guides I would suggest a
different approach. The rearward force can be considerable during insertion
of the spar and subsequent waggling to get it in the cups, even with internal
guides, so the angle bracket attachment needs to be very strong - (e.g three
rivets will pull out). If you bolt it down then the vertical arm of the
bracket gets bent and/or the spar damaged. By contrast the vertical packing
needs to be precise and is under compression so bonding is fine. So I suggest
separating into a bonded packing ( preferably molded to accommodate the usual
angle on the spar edge) and a separate rearward stop which is bolted through
the base of the aperture frame. On the port side I used a hard rubber disc 2"
dia , 7/8" high. which does not damage the spar. (Those of you who have
converted from the old tail wheel assembly will find three of them have
become available by courtesy of Europa, unless you have thrown them away ! )
Unfortunately you can't do this on the stbd. side as the spar is further back
and the crank gets in the way, so you have to use an angle here, but if it is
not made part of the vertical packing it seems ok with a protective pad next
the spar.
To get the packing correct (without running the risk of glueing your spar in
permanently !) you need to see in. Before the root flanges are fitted this
is easy, but if you have to do it again later due to wear (pins tend to go
tight again with time anyway), you will have to hinge out a section of the
lower root flange to avoid a lot of trial and error.
Graham C G-EMIN
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