Just this one more time, here's the FAQ, re-written to reflect the
features of the new forum. After this I'll just put up a message to
say it's changed, and anyone who wishes to see it can order their own
copy.
Europa FAQ version 32, last modified 31 January 2002
This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa
e-mail list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed
by Ivan Shaw (with a little help from Don Dykins).
FAQ maintained at present by:
Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro and the Europa community]
<europa-club@rowil.clara.net>
Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time.
Questions answered (* = changed since last version):
* 0 Where can I find this FAQ?
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
* 2 What is the Europa Forum?
* 3 Who may join the Europa Forum?
* 4 How do I join the Europa forum?
* 5 How do I get off the Europa forum?
* 6 What address should I send messages to?
* 7 List etiquette - what's that?
* 8 What's all this about passwords?
* 9 How do I get help with changing settings for my subscription?
* 10 How do I tell the forum server that my address has changed?
* 11 Can I post messages from more than one e-mail address?
* 12 Where can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list?
* 13 Can I get messages in a digest rather than one-by-one?
* 14 Can I post attachments or encoded mail to the Europa forum?
15 Can I post to the forum a warning about a virus?
16 How do I join the Europa Club?
* 17 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
* 18 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
* 19 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
20 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
21 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
23 My Europa's complete - can I test fly it now?
24 Is the Europa hard to fly - will I need type training?
25 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
26 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
27 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
28 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
29 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
30 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
31 Has anyone designed a fuselage support for use during building?
32 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
* 33 How will I know I've built it right?
34 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
35 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
* 36 What engines are available for the Europa?
37 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
38 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
* 0 Where can I find this FAQ?
-----------------------------
You can retrieve a copy of this FAQ by sending an e-mail message to
<forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>
The subject line is not important (you might like to put "FAQ" in it
to remind yourself what it was about) but the body of the message
should contain only the text:
faq forum
It's probably a good idea to switch your e-mail client software
(Outlook Express, Eudora, or whatever) to sending plain text before
composing and sending this message. Just this once, if you can turn
off any cute signature lines that your messages normally incorporate,
do that too. Following this advice makes it easier for the computer
to which you're sending the request (the "list server") to interpret
your instructions, and it will be less inclined to send you lengthy
lectures in reply.
A WWW page containing the latest version is maintained on the Europa
Club website at:
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
(I try to honour HTML 4 standards - please help me by letting me know
if you have problems with this page.)
With the capability on the new forum to retrieve the FAQ at any time
I do not intend to continue the practice of posting it regularly
unless there appears to be a need, but will post a note when a new
version is available. Previous postings on the old list server can be
found in the various Europa e-mail list archives - search for a
subject line containing "FAQ".
Europa Aircraft also maintain a FAQ on their WWW pages at:
<http://www.europa-aircraft.com/faqs/intro.html>
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
New items, and correction or enhancement of existing items are
welcome. Send your suggestion in e-mail to the FAQ maintainer (see
above). Submissions most likely to be incorporated will have similar
formatting to the existing FAQ, and display accuracy in spelling,
grammar, and syntax. The ultimate deciding factor, however, will be
the quality and relevancy of the information. The maintainer reserves
the right to edit for brevity, clarity or humour.
* 2 What is the Europa Forum?
----------------------------
A discussion group of interested parties, communicating by e-mail.
Any message sent to the forum by any subscriber is relayed to all
subscribers. Thus, you must subscribe in order to participate, but
despite the use of the word "subscribe", there is no cost involved.
The forum is also known as an "e-mail list" and it is run by a
computer system known as a "list server".
* 3 Who may join the Europa Forum?
---------------------------------
Anyone with an interest in the Europa aircraft may join the forum.
You do not have to be building or flying a Europa, or to be a member
of the Europa Club (though of course we would welcome your membership
- see "How do I join the Europa Club?"). You are not obliged to post
messages - you can just observe what everyone else has to say (this
is called "lurking") but you are encouraged to introduce yourself
when you first join and say what your interests are in the Europa.
* 4 How do I join the Europa forum?
----------------------------------
You can subscribe by sending an e-mail message to:
<forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>
The subject line is not important (put "subscribe europa list" there
to remind yourself what it was about) but the body of the message
should contain only the following text:
subscribe europa
It's probably a good idea to switch your e-mail client software
(Outlook Express, Eudora, or whatever) to sending plain text before
composing and sending this message. Just this once, if you can turn
off any cute signature lines that your messages normally incorporate,
do that too. Following this advice makes it easier for the computer
to which you're sending the request (the "list server") to interpret
your instructions, and it will be less inclined to send you lengthy
lectures in reply.
Once the server has understood your request, it will send you an
e-mail message with instructions on how the list works, and also send
you by e-mail all future contributions to the list. Note that the
server address (where you sent the above command to join the list) is
different from the one you use to post messages for other people to
read, but that is all explained in the introductory message.
Note also that in the intial message on joining the list you will be
given a password; it's important to keep that somewhere you can
easily find it again, as you are likely to need it later.
You can also subscribe by sending ANY e-mail message (even a
completely blank one) to:
<forum-subscribe@europaclub.org.uk>
This produces just the same results as described above.
In case of problems with subscribing, contact <forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk>.
* 5 How do I get off the Europa forum?
-------------------------------------
To remove yourself from the Europa Forum e-mail list, send an email to
<forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>
The subject line is not important (put "unsubscribe europa forum"
there to remind yourself what it was about) but the body of the
message should contain only the text:
unsubscribe forum
Please note that all commands (including subscribe and unsubscribe)
to the server which runs the Europa e-mail list must be addressed to
"forum-request", NOT the list address where the discussion goes on
("forum"). Doing that will make you look (at best) forgetful, or (at
worst) incapable of following simple instructions (and you need to
follow a lot of instructions to build an aeroplane).
address which is different to one you originally subscribed on, the
server will not be able to deal with your request unless you follow
the procedure outlined in the introductory message, using the
password.
However, if your e-mail address is going to change, it's pretty
foolproof to first unsubscribe using the old account, then subscribe
using the new one (or do it in the opposite order if you want to be
sure of not missing any postings).
to the forum, you can also unsubscribe by sending ANY e-mail message
(even a completely blank one) to:
This produces just the same results as described above.
You can also unsubscribe on the user config screen at:
<http://lists.flyer.co.uk/cgi-bin/mj_wwwusr/domain=europaclub.org.uk>
You will need your user password to operate the www interface - see
the "passwords" question for more information.
In case of problems with unsubscribing contact <forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk>.
* 6 What address should I send messages to?
------------------------------------------
To send a message that will be received by everyone else on the
forum, address it to:
<forum@europaclub.org.uk>
To send a command to the computer system that controls the forum,
address it to:
<forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>
To send a message to the person who administers the forum, address it to:
<forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk>
You should only need to use this last address in dire emergency!
* 7 List etiquette - what's that?
--------------------------------
Like many things, an e-mail list functions best if all the users work
co-operatively. There are some ways of doing things that will make
sharing of information easier and more pleasant for all of us on the
list. Adam Engst, author of the "Internet Starter Kit ..." books has
made a very good summary of advice, and encourages its wider
publication. The only thing I would add to Adam's list is:
Write answers BELOW questions, NOT above them.
(This is just common-sense, and also allows multiple responses to a
thread while keeping the chronology of the discussion clear.)
Now here's Adam's excellent advice:
There are a number of things we can do to improve the quality of
mailing lists for the benefit of all. Most of these
recommendations are simple and require little extra work. If you'd
like to read a more detailed rationale for these suggestions,
check out the Mailing List Manners 101 and 102 articles published
by TidBITS at:
<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbser=1141>
Email Program Settings Suggestions:
* Turn off features (like VCards) that create attachments.
* Avoid sending HTML-formatted messages to lists.
* Send replies either to the sender or the list, but not both.
* Make sure the time is set properly on your computer.
Writing and Layout Suggestions:
* Don't use all capital letters for more than a word or two.
* Insert blank lines between paragraphs.
* Include full URL schemes, as in <http://www.tidbits.com/>.
* Surround URLs with angle brackets.
* Try to use proper grammar, spelling, and punctuation.
Message Content Suggestions:
* Never send unsubscribe commands to the list.
* Create and maintain descriptive subject lines.
* Quote original text sparingly in your replies.
* Don't include email attachments unless explicitly allowed.
* Use a short signature containing only essential data.
* Send welcome or congratulation messages via private email.
* Respect other people's news.
* Civility is always worthwhile.
Thanks for helping to keep mailing lists useful and pleasant
places!
Other advice on making the most effective use of e-mail (in general,
not just for lists) can be found at:
<http://www.webfoot.com/advice/email.top.html>
* 8 What's all this about passwords?
-----------------------------------
You don't need a password just to send and receive messages, only to
perform some administrative tasks relating to your subscription. The
primary use of personal passwords is to authorize changes in
subscriptions when an old e-mail address is inaccessible. In the
light of experience, the list manager may in future restrict some
other operations to require a password.
If your subscription was transferred from the old Avnet list, you
won't have been issued with a password. To get a password visit:
<http://lists.flyer.co.uk/cgi-bin/mj_wwwusr/domain=europaclub.org.uk>
and ask to sign in. Then select 'I've forgotten my password'. A
password will be sent to you by email.
To change your password visit the same web page as above, sign in and
use the box and button near the bottom of the user config screen.
Instructions for making other changes to your subscription are
available on the website (go to "Unsubscribe and Change Settings") -
but make sure you understand the implications before changing the
default settings!
If you forget your password, just get a new one as above.
You can find out more about passwords by sending the command:
help password
to the list server at <forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>
In case of problems with passwords contact <forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk>.
* 9 How do I get help with changing settings for my subscription?
Send the command:
help help
in a message to the list server at:
<forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>
This will return a message about the forum server help system, and
suggestions of how to find the exact type of help you need.
The user config screen at:
<http://lists.flyer.co.uk/cgi-bin/mj_wwwusr/domain=europaclub.org.uk>
offers a number of parameters that can be altered by individual
subscribers. We suggest that you do not alter any of these unless you
have some knowledge and experience of email systems, and have checked
the documentation of the particular setting for all the effects of
the change. You will need your user password to operate the www
interface - see the "passwords" question for more information.
* 10 How do I tell the forum server that my address has changed?
This is a two-step process.
(1) BEFORE your old address becomes unusable, unsubscribe from the
forum, originating your message from that old account.
(2) Anytime after your new address is working, subscribe to the
forum, originating your message from that new account.
See the appropriate questions for how to subscribe/unsubscribe.
If you perform step (2) before step (1), then you will not miss any messages.
If you joined the forum recently, the introductory message will have
contained a password and instructions for unsubscribing a defunct
e-mail address from any other address. However, if you lose your
password, then once your old address has ceased to work, you can't do
step (1) and failing to do it will cause extra work for the list
minder, who has better things to do!
You can also change your e-mail address using the user settings web page at:
<http://lists.flyer.co.uk/cgi-bin/mj_wwwusr/domain=europaclub.org.uk>
Instructions for changing your e-mail address are available at the
website. You will need your user password to operate the www
interface - see the "passwords" question for more information.
Of course, you may wish to post a message to the forum telling all
your friends about your new address - but NOTE that the list server
(a computer) will not take any note of such messages! Neither will
the list minder (a person) alter your subscribed address unless you
explicitly ask him to - but this course of action should only be a
last resort if you cannot do it yourself by either of the above
methods. Send a message explaining the problem to
<forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk>.
* 11 Can I post messages from more than one e-mail address?
The forum server permits aliases. An alias is an alternate posting
address for a subscriber. Normally the forum will reject messages
posted by non-subscribers, but aliases allow a subscriber to have one
or more additional addresses from which posted messages will be
accepted. Only one copy of each message broadcast by the forum is
delivered, to the main subscriber address.
Aliases can be set or changed on the user config screen at:
<http://lists.flyer.co.uk/cgi-bin/mj_wwwusr/domain=europaclub.org.uk>
You will need your user password to operate the www interface - see
the "passwords" question for more information. You can find out more
about aliases and how to manage them using e-mail commands by sending
the command:
help alias
to the list server at <forum-request@europa.cub.org.uk>.
In case of problems with aliases contact <forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk>.
* 12 Where can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list?
Andrew Sarangan has done a great service to the Europa internet
community by creating a searchable archive online. You can
interrogate it at:
<http://www.geocities.com/asarangan/europa_forum.html>
Andrew created this from the fairly complete archive of list postings
available for download, stored for the Europa Club by Aviators
Network. It contains all the postings from both the current list
running under the "europaclub.org.uk" domain and the original list
that ran in the "avnet.co.uk" domain.
If you wish to have your own local copies of the original messages,
you can order monthly chunks of it from the list server using an
e-mail command. Your command (like all commands to the list server)
must go to the server address "forum-request", _not_ the list address
"forum". You can get a list of all the files available by sending the
command:
archive-summary forum
to the list server address <forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>. The
archive for the forum also includes the archives of the original
list. The files transferred across from the old system will show up
as empty, but don't worry, they do contain data. The inappropriate
labelling is only because they were not stored using the current
server. Once you've found what is available, you can have any desired
file delivered by sending a message such as:
archive-get forum 199912
to the same server address. That one would get you the postings seen
during December 1999. There are many more complex ways of specifying
which messages you wish to retrieve; for detailed information about
how to access the archives send the command:
help archive
the the list server at <forum-request@europaclub.org.uk>.
You can collect all the previous postings in this way, but how best
organise them so the information is accessible? You could just save
them all as text and use a text editor or word-processor application
to search for words of interest. You could create your own database
system to make browsing easier. Or, you could avoid re-inventing the
wheel and use one of the already-developed systems.
Peter Thomas created a stand-alone system called EUROCHAT which runs
under Windows, and it is available from the Europa Club ftp site (off
the main menu). Look for EUROCHAT.ZIP, download it and unzip it. The
file as downloaded does not contain all the postings - you have to
add them yourself, but instructions are included.
Rowland Carson created a database file template for doing much the
same thing, but it requires the database manager application
FileMaker Pro to function. FMP is available for both Mac and Windows
operating systems. The template requires that the text files as saved
---From the e-mail application be pre-processed for dross removal &
formatting before import to the FMP file, and a small Mac tool is
available to do that. The C source of the program is also available
and should readily port to other platforms if desired as it has
minimal interaction with the operating system. Contact Rowland Carson
<rowil@clara.net> for further details.
* 13 Can I get messages in a digest rather than one-by-one?
Digests are not working at present, but we intend to fix that soon.
Once the digest facility is operational, the digest option may be
selected by individual subscribers using the user configuration web
pages at:
<http://lists.flyer.co.uk/cgi-bin/mj_wwwusr/domain=europaclub.org.uk>
You will need your user password to operate the www interface - see
the "passwords" question for more information. If you select delivery
by digest, please ensure that you observe good list etiquette. In
particular:
(1) Any quotations from previous messages in your posting must be
edited down to a short relevant section and NOT include the whole
content of a digest.
(2) The subject line should be edited to be pertinent and NOT left as
"re: Digest".
Other lists which permitted digest delivery have been forced to
remove the facility following problems of this nature with postings,
so if we get it working, please use it responsibly!
* 14 Can I post attachments or encoded mail to the Europa forum?
No - like many e-mail lists, and in line with accepted netiquette,
the Europa Forum does not permit the broadcasting of encoded
material, whether it's HTML, styled text, pictures, compiled
programs, etc, etc. If you send an attachment, it will not be
transmitted to the forum. If you post in HTML, it will be rendered
into plain text before onward transmission. One main reason for this
policy is to prevent the spread of any virus or other malicious
software.
If there is something (such as a circuit diagram) which can't be
expressed in plain text, but is worth sharing with the majority of
the Europa community, there are two possibilities:
(1) if it's urgent, ask the Europa Club website maintainer or the
list owner for the Europa e-mail list to put the file on the ftp or
www site;
(2) submit it to the Europa Club newsletter editor for inclusion in
the next quarterly issue of the "Europa Flyer". See the Europa Club
WWW pages, or the latest "Europa Flyer", for the current addresses.
15 Can I post to the forum a warning about a virus?
---------------------------------------------------
STOP! Before you pass on any message warning about a virus (or worm,
or similar), check with the several websites devoted to this topic
that you are not propagating a hoax. It's usually wise to regard any
such message as a hoax UNLESS it comes direct from someone you know
and trust, AND describes his or her own PERSONAL experience of the
alleged malicious software. Anything that says "send this to everyone
in your address book" is almost certainly intended to infect your
mind, not to warn about potential infection of your computer!
Check these websites before wasting everyone's time!
<http://www.datafellows.com/news/hoax.htm>
<http://www.stiller.com/hoaxes.htm>
<http://www.symantec.com>
<http://www.mcafee.com>
<http://www.sophos.co.uk>
16 How do I join the Europa Club?
---------------------------------
Contact the Membership Secretary for full information. At present the
Membership Secretary is:
Rowland Carson
4 Saville Close
CHELTENHAM
Gloucestershire
England
GL50 4NE
* 17 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
The Europa factory puts out a newsletter from time to time (between 2
and 4 times a year), a subscription to which is mandatory for all
builders. Those not yet building can also subscribe, but will not
receive the inserts with details of modifications, etc, which go only
to builders. Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Aircraft" at the
office in Yorkshire, England or Florida, USA depending on your own
location. Europa Aircraft has representatives in other countries who
may be able to handle factory newsletter subscriptions - check the
factory WWW site (see below) for the latest addresses.
The Europa Club puts out a newsletter (The Europa Flyer) 4 times a
year (Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec) to all paid-up Europa Club members.
Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Club", and are due 1st April each
year. Enclosed with the March newsletter, members receive
notification of their subscription status and a copy of the
information currently held about them by the Club (in compliance with
the UK data protection laws). The Club and its newsletter is not
connected with the Europa factory or its newsletter.
The Europa forum on the internet is open to anyone to join. There is
no charge. Like most things on the internet, it is not controlled by
anyone. Neither Europa Aircraft nor the Europa Club have any power
over what goes on there, although representatives of both take part
---From time to time. It's simply a forum for discussion among Europa
enthusiasts. Many of the useful nuggets of information appearing
there are reproduced in the Europa Club newsletter for the benefit of
members not on-line. The forum (and the Europa Club website, see
below) was set up as a service to the Europa community by a Europa
Club member, and it (and the website) are now maintained by other
Europa Club members. The time available for list & website management
work is anything left over after family, Europa building, and day job
have had their allocations.
Both the Europa Club <http://www.europaclub.org.uk/> and Europa
Aircraft <http://www.europa-aircraft.com> have World Wide Web sites,
and there are links between them. The Club pages provide access to
the archives of the Europa e-mail list, and a few past copies of the
FACTORY newsletter, but NOT the CLUB newsletter - that is available
to Club members only.
* 18 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft or sport flying
organisation, and you can get help and advice by joining.
Australia: SAAA <http://www.saaa.asn.au/>
Canada: RAAC <http://www.inforamp.net/~raac/>
Denmark: KZ Club & EAA 655 <http://www.kzclub.dk/>
Finland: Finnish Aviation Association (FAA) <http://www.ilmailuliitto.fi>
France: Reseau du Sport de l'Air (RSA) (website link lost at present)
Germany: OUV <http://www.ouv.de/>
Greece: Hellenic Experimental & ULA Association <http://www.eexi.gr/spa>
International: FAI - CIACA International Homebuilt Committee
<http://www.fai.org/~fai/homebuilt>
Italy: Club Aviazione Popolare (CAP)
<http://www.areacom.it/html/arte_cultura/aviazione/hombuil.htm>
Mexico: AAE <http://spin.com.mx./~jpgonzalez/>
Netherlands: NVAV <http://www.nvav.nl/>
New Zealand: Sport Aviation Assoc of NZ <http://www.saa.org.nz/>
Sweden: EAA 222 <http://www.eaa.se/>
Switzerland: Experimental Aviation of Switzerland (EAS)
<http://www.rsa-suisse.org/>
UK: Popular Flying Association (PFA), with local Struts
<http://www.pfa.org.uk/>
USA: Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA), with local Chapters
<http://www.eaa.org/>
* 19 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA,
EAS, SAAA, etc).
The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA.
If you live elsewhere, things may be different.
Several books are available on the subject.
Allan J Hall said:
My vote for most useful books would be:
Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis
Firewall Forward - Tony Bingelis
Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue
Jim Campbell said:
Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740
pages detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits
as well as over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic
composite construction techniques to test flying and dealing with the
Feds...
US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881.
1-800-356-7767
Rowland Carson said:
I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your
Homebuilt - the one you'll finish
Kitplane Construction by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for
Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite
Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft Construction by Burt Rutan. All are now
available from the PFA bookshop. Aircraft Spruce also do a kit of
materials to go with the Rutan book, so you can try out the
techniques on a small scale.
20 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some
countries will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility
that you spend several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then
find that:
you have some subtle medical condition that prevents issue of a
flight medical;
you spent so much on building the plane you have no funds left to
pay for training;
you don't really like flying in a small plane;
you just don't seem to have an aptitude for controlling a plane.
OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but
maybe you might have chosen to use your time differently had you
known in advance.
-------------------------------
Kim Prout said (in relation to FAA rules for USA):
You could train for your PPL in a Europa, this would also
count as training in taildraggers, although you would be best off training
in taildragger first then transition train to Europa. If flying a tri-gear
this would be no factor.
21 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
It depends where you live, but probably not. In most countries the
Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license (but see Kim
Prout's comment below). The rules defining microlights or ultralights
are slightly different in different countries (and in some places no
licence at all is required to fly one), but the Europa would not meet
most of them.
However, it appears that the rules for ultralight aircraft in
Australia and Colombia may allow a Europa to qualify. Kit A005 is
registered to a Colombian builder as UL-2057 (the normal registration
prefix for Colombia is HK-, and no other country claims the UL-
prefix). Likewise, in Australia, Europa kit 342 has been registered
as an ultralight under the mark 19-3136 (normal Australian marks are
VH-XXX).
As far as formal pilot qualifications are concerned, it's usually
going to be in the same category as a Cessna 150 (single-engine
landplane). In some jurisdictions, your licence will need to be
endorsed for "retractable undercarriage" and/or "tailwheel". Since
(in its most popular configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger,
your flight safety will be enhanced by having some prior taildragger
experience, and much more so by getting some training on the Europa
itself from a pilot experienced on type before you launch solo. In
UK, please take advantage of the PFA coaching scheme for type
conversion training, which is helping to prevent low-time accidents
and so keeps all our insurance premiums from going through the
ceiling! In USA, consult your EAA Technical Counselor for flight
advice.
------------------------------
Kim Prout pointed out a curiosity of the FAA regulations relating to
pilot licences for experimental-certificate aircraft in USA:
Per FAA Riverside FSDO, R.C. Morton, a ruling was made several years ago by
General Counsel which allows any type rating to fly any experimental, unless
the operating limitations specify a certain rating for the aircraft. A
typical limitation states that the pilot must be appropriately rated for the
type aircraft (need a private pilot license) or a sign off in your log book
by an instructor. In other words, you could indeed have any rating (glider,
balloon, etc) and still pilot a Europa if you can find an instructor to
train you in the Europa and sign your log book that you are qualified in
type.
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is
the ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but
they have delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So,
as an aircraft builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the
US, you deal with the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the
aircraft for flight. In UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but
rather a "Permit to Fly", similar to that issued for a manufacturer's
prototype. In USA, they are issued a C of A in the "Experimental"
category.
In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an
inspector appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections,
the aircraft will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of
the building process, preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical
Counselor" is required in USA.
Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority
must be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable
standard of workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the
builder (ie not built by a "hired gun") and that it matches the
design to agreed tolerances. Any modifications made by the builder
must also be approved.
Homebuilt aircraft are normally subject to operational restrictions
until a flight test schedule has been completed. For instance, the
documentation authorising first flight ("permit to test" in UK) may
restrict test flying to a particular suitably qualified pilot (see
"can I test fly it now?").
The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about
the UK paperwork requirements.
23 My Europa's complete - can I test fly it now?
------------------------------------------------
Once the paperwork is complete (and that's another question) you'll
be keen to get it into the air. However, you should NOT contemplate
doing the test flying yourself, and especially not the very first
flight.
I know, I know, you've spent more time with this aeroplane than
anyone else and you know it really well, but that does not constitute
a qualification. Nor does thousands of hours on 747s or even on jet
fighters.
The person who does the first flight and early testing of your Europa
needs to be:
(1) both experienced and CURRENT on the Europa;
(2) both experienced and CURRENT as a test pilot.
If you have spent more time recently building than flying, then you
may not be current on ANY aeroplane, much less meet the requirements
above.
Your first flight as P1 in an aeroplane you built yourself does NOT
need to be the very first flight of the aircraft, and is is likely to
be much more enjoyable if a properly qualified test pilot has found
all the squawks for you beforehand.
One of the driving forces behind the now successful EAA flight
advisor programme was the realisation that many homebuilts crashed
very early, often on the first flight, and very often with serious or
fatal injuries to the proud builder.
When you're nearly ready to fly, please contact Europa Aircraft to
help find a suitable test pilot. They will be only too glad to assist
- you will not make good sales publicity if you bore holes into the
ground with your Europa, instead of through the clouds.
The same advice holds if you've taken the aircraft out of service for
significant modifications (flying surfaces, controls, engine or fuel
system, etc), particularly if you're pioneering this particular
modification. Get a properly qualified test pilot to prove that it's
safe to fly as modified (and she or he will probably want to know
that the mod has been approved by a suitably qualified engineer, so
you might want to do that first).
24 Is the Europa hard to fly - will I need type training?
No, the Europa is not hard to fly. In the air, it behaves much as one
would expect, and even low-time pilots can keep it right side up and
pointed where they're going without difficulty. However, no matter
how much experience they may have on other types, anyone new to the
Europa can find that take-offs and landings become much more exciting
than preferred.
Before going solo in any Europa, do get yourself checked out by a
suitably experienced pilot. The monowheel Europa's unusual
undercarriage configuration means that it requires slightly unusual
handling techniques, even for those who are confident in conventional
taildraggers. And don't even think of doing the first flight yourself
- see elsewhere in this FAQ.
No, it's not HARD, but it is DIFFERENT. Some people have taught
themselves the differences the hard way, acquiring unwanted damage on
their nice new aeroplanes. It's much less painful to get properly
converted onto type. Your national aircraft homebuilders' association
(see list elsewhere in this FAQ) can probably help, or if not, the
factory should be able to recommend someone suitable.
25 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
---------------------------------
The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's
built one and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that
someone who has developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling
and cannot complete the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit.
Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of
general pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in
the magazines of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular
Flying" & EAA's "Sport Aviation"). The aircraft trading magazines
such as Trade-a-Plane and GA Buyer <http://www.gabuyer.com> have also
carried ads for Europas. And you can of course find them in a
Europa-specific forum such as the Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the
Europa internet e-mail list.
You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else
build an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the
CAA and the FAA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain
specialist jobs (eg painting, avionics installation) being done by
others, but you should be prepared to prove that you have done the
bulk of the building yourself.
Also, if you buy an aircraft either completed, or on which someone
else has done the majority of work, you may not be allowed to perform
maintenance tasks on it unless you can demonstrate to the appropriate
authorities that you are competent to do so (which you would normally
demonstrate by building the whole thing yourself!).
26 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------
In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit:
With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know
of is just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500.
Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete
---From Europa Club members:
900
1200
1500+
1580
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000+
2300
2400
2400
2500
2500
~2800
2900
2900
3000
3000+
Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working)
builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with
on first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a
concours-winner "show plane" - or even all of the above!
27 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
--------------------------------------------------
John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995:
Kit delivered 19250
Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given)
Rotax 914 12500
prop 1500
Inst/avionics 10000
Upholst/paint 1000
-----
Total 45000
Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995:
Type: Item: Total (incl VAT):
Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75
Stage 2 wings 4,641.25
Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50
Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00
Fitting kit 2,937.50
overflow bottle 39.95
rectifier/regulator 41.13
slipper clutch 323.13
vacuum pump 675.63
Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50
Instruments altimeter 199.75
air speed 141.00
vertical speed 129.25
turn and slip 282.00
gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10
directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30
standby compass 70.50
Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42
Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25
Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13
Terra height encoder 207.48
Antenna kit 17.63
GPS 705.00
Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75
navigation lights 176.25
strobe 229.13
landing light 0.00
intercom 30.55
Finish paint 587.50
paint labor 2,750.00
interior trim 587.50
Trailer 1,568.63
workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76
Total: 42,355.69
my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00
Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69
In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds):
Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500
Rotax engine kit # 9,000
Average Instrument Fit # 3,000
(ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches)
Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500
Paint and misc parts # 1,000
Registration & test flying # 1,000
Value Added Tax # 4,725
This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no
professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality
will end up spending nearer 35 - 40,000.
I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay
your hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the
region of 1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year
In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia:
The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then
you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs
clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its
insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a
quote from Europa for a part share in a container for any future
stages I may choose to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me
$6000.00 approx (2900.00 Pounds).
A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds
Packing 40.00
Crating 115.00
Insurance 16.00
Delivery approx 423.00
Fuselage Kit 5200.00
Packing 60.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 21.00
Delivery 696.00
If both purchased together
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 100.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 1078.00
If both were sent in a container
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 160.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 700.00
28 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
--------------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when
he got his Europa built in New Zealand, so he asked the factory to
measure the monowheel on the standard factory trailer:
The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at
Kirbymoorside, are as follows.....
Height 84 inches 214 cm
Width 81 inches 206 cm
Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm
Much later, John Moran was puzzled by the height quoted and asked
other people to check. Roger Anderson said:
I keep my Europa G-BXTD in a garage which has a door aperture 82"
wide and 75" high. It is a fairly tight fit but I manage alright. It
makes life a lot easier having a push tow bar on the front of my car,
and I have painted white lines on the drive just outside the garage
to act as wheel guides. I un-hitch just before the fin encounters the
doorway and hand push the trailer on the jockey wheel for the last
bit. No problem even though I have a Skyflash strobe on the top of
the fin.
This supports John's suspicion that an error was made in the original
measurements, and that 84" should be 74"!
29 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
No. There are several other designs of trailer available in UK,
including several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade
Trailers, and Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa
>Flyer at various times. You can also design and build your own, as
described in Europa Flyer #12. EAA's Experimenter carried an article
on trailers in Vol 18 No 4, April 1998, pp 11-15 & 40-41.
30 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
--------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote:
The list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've come
up with a more expansive (expensive?) list.
Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow
them if possible.
In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill
bits etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the
following:
Hand Tools:
Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging
Center punch, automatic
Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to C clamps.
Cold chisel - to cut control cable
Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points
Countersink, 45 degree
Dial caliper - optional but very useful
Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed.
Hacksaw
Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long
Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?)
Hot glue gun
Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level
Long board sander - as used for autobody work
Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?)
Paint pen, optional, available at art stores
Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker
Pad saw (aka back saw)
Pop riveter
Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for many things
including as a mini-squeegee when filling pinholes.
Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife trim stage. Many
other uses.
Respirator, with activated charcoal filters
Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?)
Scribe, carbide tip
Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler.
Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline
Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful
Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well.
Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc.
Tape measure
Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?)
Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred
Tubing cutter
Utility knife
Wire crimper for electrical terminals
Wood chisel, 1/2"
Power Tools:
Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on Tufnol. Handy for
fitting the footwell floors and fuselage rear bulkhead too.
Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks work great
for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming. The drum sanders work well
on glass. The wire brush removes foam and micro from glass prior to
bonding. Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due to
heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll end up buying a
new tool.
Drill press - required
Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save some time since
often one must drill holes and then enlarge or countersink them.
Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice.
Orbital sander - saves time, not required.
Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill.
Router - handy if you happen to have one
Shop vacuum - required
Things you make
Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so that it is
about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a nice fillet when applying
flox or micro in a corner. Wipe it off when you're done and re-use.
It will last forever, preserved in epoxy.
Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold sandpaper worked
for me. Used with electric drill to fit the control stick.
Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued on using rubber
cement.
Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left over from wing
inspection ports instead of plywood - for flexibility.
Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for long board
sander as found at auto stores.
Shop Aprons
Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and squeegees.
Foam blocks work fine for this.
Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber cemented to them.
Make several with different grits.
Consumables
Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making more precise
patterns than using paper. Can be cut with scissors. I found this at
the local newspaper where they use the sheets in the printing process.
Fish line
Hot glue sticks
Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
Masking tape
Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware store. Use
for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts with the sticky nuts.
Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort
Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes, etc. Also use
to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking.
Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper
Sandpaper
Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of vinyl tubing
slipped over the nose to seal to the surface while injecting. Can often
be washed and re-used.
Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go over them. Use
string gloves as liners to absorb perspiration.
I'm not done building yet. Any suggestions for additions to the list?
31 Has anyone designed a fuselage support for use during building?
Yes - at least all of the following builders have:
Miles McCallum - see Flyer May 1999
Chuck Popenoe - see EAA Experimenter May 1999 and:
<http://members.bellatlantic.net/~cpops>
Roger Sheridan - see Europa Flyer #17 and:
<ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa/trolley1.jpg>
and
<ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa/trolley2.jpg>
Bob Fairall - see Europa Flyer #18
32 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------
Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average
handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or
at least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official
reasons given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is
"education". Few people who have not previously built a foam & glass
aeroplane will be familiar with the techniques, but most will reach
an acceptable standard after some small practice pieces.
* 33 How will I know I've built it right?
---------------------------------------
Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical
Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable
standard - may even help you do some things first time around! Some
inspections need to be done before doing other construction that
would enclose or cover the area, so proceed with care.
You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to keep
small samples of the resin from each batch of layup that you do, and
these can be tested later to check your build quality.
34 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
--------------------------------------------------
Graham Singleton said:
Burt Rutan described the best check I know.
6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface.
Squeegee out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in.
If too much pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres
relax. Allow to cure, cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and
weigh. 297 gms is a bit light and might have air voids. 310 gms is
perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your aircraft was built to this
ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40 lbs overweight. (18 Kgs
if you must )
35 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
-----------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system
causes least reaction:
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less
prone to provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was
allergic to that too. Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am
I allergic to Redux. It's a matter of personal chemistry, so buy a
small amount and try it before commiting. For me, a respirator
wasn't sufficient so I had to get a Hobbyair to allow work to
continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the
hardner. Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's
personal reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to
Aeropoxy that a couple hours in the garage with the wings which had
cured for over three weeks would cause a major reaction, so
apparently the amines out-gas for quite a while. Touching the cured
wings also caused serious problems. Washing the cured parts with a
50/50 mixture of vinegar and water - required before filling anyway -
eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to
the gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an
epoxy allergy since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously.
Avoid gloves which use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely
to provoke an allergy and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile
gloves are a good alternative. Use string gloves as a liner to
minimize softening of the skin due to sweat since this increases
absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the latex gloves
when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally impermeable to
epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves when
exposed to wet epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is
prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some
become so sensitive that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
* 36 What engines are available for the Europa?
---------------------------------------------
At present Europa Aircraft only supply and recommend Rotax engine
packages. Other engines are available from independent sources.
Rotax 912 80bhp (flying)
Rotax 912S 100bhp (flying)
Rotax 914 115 bhp, turbocharged (flying)
NSI Subaru 100bhp & 118bhp (flying)
Mid-West rotary (flown in at least 2 Europas and in other aircraft)
Jabiru 2200 4-cyl 80bhp (flying in Jabiru; first flown in Europa June 1998)
Jabiru 3300 6-cyl 120bhp (flying in UK & Australian Europas)
JPX 4TX90/A flat-4 90bhp (Europa installation being developed by
builder in Italy)
Sauer 90bhp (flying in Austria)
Limbach 2000 EO (Europa installation being developed by Columbian builder)
Wilksch WAM-120 CITEC 120bhp turbodiesel (Test flying in Europa since 1999)
<http://www.wilksch.com>
BMW RS1100 (a few flying in Europas, with various reduction drives)
The majority of Europas now flying use the Rotax 912, which has
proved very reliable in the Europa (and many other aircraft types);
although several of the other engine packages are flying in other
designs, not enough are in service in Europas to make statistically
significant comparisons. Engine installations usually differ from one
design of aircraft to another. The size of propellor that can be
used, the cowl shape, and in particular, changes in cooling
arrangements, mean that experience in other designs may not transfer
directly to the Europa situation.
37 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the usable internal
width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed.
Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great
outdoors (freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping
the rudder pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about
shoulder room.
Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider
what it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less
roomy for the very tall than some of the other kits (such as the
Glastar) but then it has many other advantages over these, such as
fuel economy and all-round elegance. It is much roomier than some of
the more direct competition such as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I
believe) and designed it to be comfortable for him.
The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you
have a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase
this (one UK builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a
substantial modification which could provide the answer). If you have
any doubts then find a finished example and try at least to have a
long "sit" - whilst making the obligatory "brrmming" noises of course.
At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort
during long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of
work.
The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a
visit and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder
left convinced that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as
to how he must have been proportioned!
38 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa
is capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up.
The snag, as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right
and you have failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for
error and, at a certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are
committed and there is no room to change your mind.
Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that
there is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never
need that room - but ... but ... but ... but ...
My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I
would be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields.
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
|
