Paul
Probably around 15 man days but, as I say, probably 10 of that was
getting the brush marks out. Even then I wished I had spent more time
being more picky about some of the defects - anything you can see as a
slight defect will look several times worse when painted with a high
gloss finish.
Cheer up - you're getting to the end!!
Regards
Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Finishing XS Wings
Hi Roger,
Thanks for your tips, I wish I could say "I can hardly wait". What does
3 weeks solid work translate into for hours ? Was this 3 weekends and
quite a few week nights, or did you mean 21 man days ?
Thanks, Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills@btopenworld.com>
Subject: Re: Finishing XS Wings
> Paul,
> It took me 3 weeks' solid work , (mainly because I had a lot of small
> defects, pin holes etc. I applied SP Systems hi build brushing primer
> all over with a brush and failed to comprehend that you should use a
> squeegee to wipe most of it off before it sets - I then probably spent
> 2 of the 3 weeks carefully sanding to get the brush marks out).
>
> You seem to have listed all the joints you have to fill. Make sure you
> use enough filler to make an invisible joint by placing a long
> straight edge over all the joints to estimate the minimum distance you
> need to fill to to eliminate daylight under the straight edge - then
> over-fill slightly.
>
> Neville recommended using a perspex car number plate to apply the
> filler with and that was a good tip - it is sufficiently flexible to
> fair the joint in well at the wing root fairing. I took this filling
> about 18" into the wing to make a smooth transition to the fairing but
> that depends on how tightly you managed to fit your fairing to the
> wing. Neville also recommended sanding down the edge of the fairing
> near the wing then applying a lay up of Bid tape over the sanded down
> joint, say 2" wide, to avoid cracks developing at what will otherwise
> be a stress point at the wing step area.
>
> Be careful in rubbing down though because the top layer of glass is
> very thin and not far below the gel coat. You only need to break the
> gel coat glaze - beware if you see slightly darker patches appearing
> because you will soon be through the gel coat and into the glass!
>
> You don't have to prime it because your paint shop will probably use a
> high build primer - check with them first and if you do use SP systems
> primer - spray, rather than brush, if you want to save time. Regards
> Roger Mills
> G-BVUV
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Finishing XS Wings
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am about to drag my XS wings down to the basement to fill and sand.
> I was wondering from the folk who have gone before me how much work
> this is. I am assuming that I only have to fill around the fairing,
> end caps and glue joints, or do I have to prime and sand the whole
> wing? How many hours per wing is this task likely to take.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul http://europa363.versadev.com
>
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>
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
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