Hi! Richard.
I used some mountain climbing gear to pull one side down and push the other
side up starting in the middle working outwards. Then when you get to the
end you can clamp it in place whilst you tie off before removing the
clamp(and probably returning to the middle for another chase). If I recall
correctly you should have 150lb down force to "break " the pivot motion with
the engine and prop. fitted. It would therefore seem that YOU need a further
150 lb resistance on yours yet. (a "pig" of a job especially with damaged
shoulders and the engine fitted)
Mine were "PETZL" TIBLOC for 10mm dia. bungee. (two off) and 10mm " clipper"
(Karabiner)(two off)
The Tiblocs are directional in that they have small spikes laid in one
direction (authorised safe for mountain climbing so they don't damage the
rubber internals of the bungee)
I bought mine from a climbing /mountaineering shop in Hathersage /Buxton but
I would expect any such shop to stock them.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Tri gear bungee tension
Anyone got any good idea's how to re-tension the nose gear bungee on a tri
gear with the engine and firewall in place?
Mine has been under tension for around 6 weeks and seems to have lost some
of its original tension. It was very tight to start with but the nose gear
pivots off the bump stop now just with the weight of the engine/prop so I
obviously need to re-tension but can't see an easy way to pull, hold and
take up the slack whilst lying on my back underneath the fuse.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
|