<<<I have checked the guides and they are as
flush as they can be to the doors so there appears to be no possibility of
installing the partner guides in the door frame without some surgery. Is
this normal?>>>
It was for me. I had to sand each mating guide flat a little to allow the
doors to close. Be shure you have at least 1/2 inch of the unradiused (or
the straight part)shoot bolt penetration when the latch is closes.
<<<Secondly, I am finding it difficult to get the doors to sit in position
without them springing-out proud of the door recess mid-way between the top
and bottom. I can't see where I should be trimming the doors to avoid this.
Advice would be appreciated.>>>
Maybe leaving them strapped down tightly with baggage straps with small
spacers at top and bottom will take out some of the bow.(?)
<<<Thirdly, if there is any other problem to look forward to with door
installation I'd be pleased to be forewarned!>>
Several Things, others may disagree.
Change the gas strut attaching locations to keep it from deforming the door
to fuselage alignment as many have done.
For the same reason, lay up some carbon uni in the 14 to 16 inch area of the
door. Even with the gas strut attach points reversed, the door still has a
little outward bow to it. Do this in the already strong sides not the thin
skin front.
A pull handle is needed at the rear of the door to close it against the
weather seal from the inside. The inside skin is too thin on its own to
attach to only this unless it is near the stronger edge areas. Just think
about this.
Turn the bolt and nut around that holds the handle to the latch mechnism.
Flox the bolt head into the outside handle and fill leaving only the nut to
be loosened inside. The manual says to redux the splash-made cover over the
latching mechanism but I put mine back on with anchor nuts and screws so it
maintenance friendly.
This may be more than you wanted to know but ...
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
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