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Europa-List: Putting in the cockpit module ( not me, you )

Subject: Europa-List: Putting in the cockpit module ( not me, you )
From: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 15:57:13

Gidday Brian,
Firstly, forget how much Araldite!!  More is better I promise you. Use the 
light,

immediately, and keep the redux runny. You need flox on the floor of the boat,
but only 
a smidgen. If it changes colour it is too much. You need 3 people, believe me.
I had 
only one helper, and I needed 2. It is inevitable you will get bubbles. Think 
about
it, a 1 
inch flange lowered onto a bed of redux will enevitably trap air. Look at my 
photos

where yours reside. Use a tongue depressor with a flattened, square end and work
the  
redux into the joints that the trouble light higlights. I didn't use the light
at the time 
which is an inexcusable mistake. I was believing I had a good bond because the
redux 
could be seen through the flange, but this could only be the primed redux prior
to you 
placing the module. There is only 4 areas that matter when you spatular in more

redux, near the tufnol flight control bearings. The rest is worth working it in,
which 
means you inevitably will end up with it oozing out the back into areas you 
can't
get to. 
Forget it, and don't let anyone tell you different. If you don't........look at
my photos. 
You'll then need to recover from your depression, then drill and inject pure 
redux
into 
the voids, at all times knowing you are bonding pure redux onto 2 surfaces that
have 
already been primed with redux and gone off creating a void that you are now 
filling.

Don't do it, just spatula enough in to make sure you have a wet joint, 
completely.
Read 
my summary after I did mine. I haven't read of a stuffup on the list, but I know
of 
several, and it seems people don't want to own up to what is one of the hardest
parts 
of the build to do well, and the consequent, less than perfect outcomes. A good
result 
is one where redux flies around the workshop and no effort is made in knowing 
exactly

how much you mix up. Get a new can and "who really gives" if you use most of it.
I 
did. Some use 350 grams. Clever aren't they. I probably used 500 grams, but I 
had

plenty left over in cups afterwards. Don't worry about it!! Lose a kg, fit into
those tight 
trousers again is my suggestion. You definitely don't need to worry about weight
as 
you will only get one shot at this. Have I made myself clear. Read my summary 
post

as I probably said something different than above, but if you stuff it up now,
well you 
were warned. 3 people minimum, 1 new tub of redux and no intention of worrying
about 
how much is used, work quickly, use little flox and certainly not enough to 
change
the 
colour of the redux to aqua, the light and the spatula/chisel ended tongue 
depressor.

Hope this all helps, and if you disagree with me, well then you are a better 
builder
and 
I know there are probably some out there, but I reckon you will be advising 
badly
to 
another builder who's workmanship may not be up to your standard, and what I 
have

recommended above at the very most will only add weight. 
Happy building. 
Reg
Tony Renshaw


> EuropaXSA276@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Howdy Gents:
> 
> Well, I have been busy this holiday weekend in my shop prepping to bond 
> this 
> module in next week.  Actually took an extra day of vacation Friday to 
> spend 
> in the shop.
> 
> I think by end of day today I'll be comfortable enough to set this baby 
> in.  
> I have a hoist and will buy a strap come along today for the area 
> around the 
> head rests.
> 
> Naturally... I have questions. John Eckell wrote the he and Steve used 
> about 
> 600 grams of Araldite < weight without hardener for the module.>  
> 
> That close to what everyone else experienced? 
> 
> They also used about 120 #8 X 1/2 sheet metal screws to pull this thing 
> 
> together.  That's a lot!  
> How do you get them to release from the Araldite after cure?
> 
> Someone mentioned a lot of dimpling from the screws after cure? Anyone 
> have a 
> fix for that?
> 
> I understand the bright light shining under the canoe to check for 
> voids.
> 
> What method do you use to fill the voids if found?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Brian S
> A276 Tri Gear. Texas
> See my build photos at:
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/BrianS 
> 
> 
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