Bob,
Has anyone resolved some of these ignition carby issues on the 912S? I read
about your tight wiring and the way it creates problems and wonder if
anyone has rewired the engine to resolve these issues. Surely the leads
wouldn't cost that much to simply replace and know it would never happen
again. I can't think when I have ever replaced leads in my cars over the
years, but I do know it can happen from time to time. As for the ignition
system, what about an after market electronic ignition system for the
Rotax? Then of course there is the carbies, with the way they go out of
synch all the time. Seems a bit backward to me. Such a good little engine
in so many ways, with this dud componentry strapped to it. I'd be
interested to know what you think, especially as you have quite a lot of
hours up now behind them.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 12:36 AM 10/12/2004, you wrote:
>
>Dave,
>
>I had the same problem a few times with my 912S. What happened to mine was
>a rite coming from the ignition module and going into the plug had broken.
>It was right near the connector and in a tightly kinked area.
>
>The pressure on the wire kept the broken ends pushed together so the problem
>was intermittent - showed up as a very rough (very very rough) mag drop -
>cutting out.
>
>I found the problem after removing the ignition module. I solddered the
>wire and all was well. It shoed again a few months later and the wire had
>broken again closed to the plug so I removed the wire from the plug and
>bypassed it with a butt connector - problem solved.
>
>Those Ducati modules use some cheap wire, but the real problem is the way
>they route it with very tight bends - my failures were also at the bends.
>
>It was very difficult to trace - never could find it with a meter, because
>of the broken wire being pushed together.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bob Jacobsen
>N201WH
>
>
> >From: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
> >Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Europa-List: Ignition problem
> >Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 21:28:08 -0700
> >
> >
> >On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
> >up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
> >headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
> >rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem with
> >the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
> >though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
> >All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a standard
> >runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
> >very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
> >takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
> >weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
> >the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
> >loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I
> >continued
> >on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and made
> >it home without further incident.
> >
> >There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil firing
> >two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
> >resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
> >between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs.
> >The
> >suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
> >cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
> >front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of
> >wires
> >and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much
> >struggle,
> >I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be
> >necessary
> >to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
> >side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
> >engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
> >
> >Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
> >where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
> >the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors
> >from
> >the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
> >necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
> >various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may
> >unscrew,
> >but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
> >wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed as
> >separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is sparking
> >to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
> >can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
> >
> >If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
> >coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
> >
> >Dave DeFord
> >N135TD
> >
> >
>
>
>
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