Gidday,
My tailspring has the basically vertical section cut away, to accept a
female fitting for an RV fully castoring tailwheel. I am supposed to attach
it with 2 holes for AN3-12A bolts, 1/2" apart, and am wondering if people
reckon I need a machine shop to make it an interference fit (extra tight
requiring a hammer to tap them home), or whether conventional drilling and
bolting would be OK. For an interference fit I think I'd get the local
machine shop to do it, at quite some expense, but I am happy to do that if
people think it necessary. To get the fully castoring to have the same tail
rise as the old one I have had to extend it about 4", with a female/male
socket extension. I am wondering if it too needs 2 bolts, or whether I
should simply put one bolt only into the spring to extension, the other
into the tailwheel to extension, or whether I should increase it to 2 holes
at each end of the extension. I realise the more holes, the more I weaken
the tailspring too. If redundancy is an issue, well the weakest link is the
upstream single bolt that holds the spring in position in the first place,
albeit it is supported by the sternpost as well. Any assistance would be
much appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger
Currently working on Rudder Pedals,
In but tight so more work to go on them.
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig,
Tail Torque Tube installed with temporary timber dowels.
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Roof Panel between doors completed.
Photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/TonyR
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Garmin 296 Colour GPS beneath an electronic Artificial
Horizon, one that I can trust for short periods IMC, to get out of a sticky
situation
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