Hi Brian,
I had that same problem. Mine seemed to have enough of a lip in the joggle
area that the contact seemed to be sufficient. But it still left a gap on the
outside that I will fill in later. However, I like to error on the safe side,
so I added a single layer of 3 inch wide "S" Glass on the inside of the seam
---From right behind the seat backs, past the "D" window, and up to cover the
joggle to the rear bulkhead.
I made sure that when I did the top to bottom Redux bond, that I reached
into the rear of the fuselage with a soft plastic putty knife attached to a long
handle to smooth out the inside seam.
Then after the Redux cured, I cut the "S" glass, wetted it out on a piece of
plastic, mixed up some flox with a portion of the mixed epoxy, climbed into
the rear on top of the shelf (see below) and painted the joint with epoxy,
followed by the flox mix to fill any holes or voids, then had the glass passed
to me and layed it up along the seam. I stippled the "S" glass in place and
covered with peel ply.
In order to work on the inside of the rear fuselage, just prior to the top
going on, I mounted a cleat on both side on the inside of the fuselage just
below the seam in order to be able to place a temporary shelf between the "D"
window and mass balance tower for me to lay on when I had to do anything in the
rear. This allowed me working room when if crawled through the "D" window. I
also re-enforced the lower lip of the "D" window bulkhead.
I hope this helps.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
|