Below is a copy of the message I posted a few years back on the process
and products I used on my Europa. Take it for what it is worth. This w
as my first painting project and I am very pleased with the results.
Regards,
Erich Trombley
The following is what I have
used on my Europa. The process and products were handed down to me from
another
Europa Builder and painting guru (Lynn Elsner) whos Europa is eight year
s
old and looks as good today as it did the day he painted it. Lynn has b
een using
this combination of primer and paint for many years on a number of airpl
anes
and the products have been around for even longer with proven results.
Primer PPG K36 Acrylic Urethane Primer/Sealer.
This is really nice stuff to work with. It is a two part primer that ca
n be rolled
on with ease (much to Lynn's surprise). I really love working with it.
The
final rolled coat looks so smooth you would swear it was sprayed. The f
iberglass substrate only needs
to be initially sanded to 80 grit as the primer can easily fill the sand
ing
marks (PPG recommends 80-150 grit for dry sanding between coats). Prior
to painting,
the primer will need to be wet sanded with 320 then 400 grit.
Top coat Sherwin-Williams Aerospace Coatings Acry-Glow Acrylic Urethan
e
This is a high quality aircraft paint that is chemically resistant to mo
st, if
not all aircraft fluids. Although somewhat expensive it is well worth t
he cost
($150 gallon including reducers and thinners). This produce is sprayed
with
a convention spray gun. I tried rolling it on to no avail (left million
s of
tiny bubbles in the paint). The product can also be clear coated for ad
ditional
UV protection, which is what I have done. In addition to the UV protect
ion
of the paint and hopefully the substrate, the plane has a professional l
ooking
finish with great depth. Although many nay sayers cite substantial weig
ht increase,I
disagree. When using a clear coat the objective is to apply just enough
color coat to cover the grey primer (usually one tack coat followed by t
wo
full coats). The color coat is then wet sanded (1,000 grit), thus remov
ing
even more weight and surface imperfections, prior to the application of
the clear
coat. One tack coat followed by three heavy coats
of clear finishes the painting. Next, the clear coat is wet sanded wi
th 1,000,
1,200 and finally 1,500 (again removing more weight and any surface impe
rfections).
Finally the surface is polished with a professional polisher and 3M
polishing compound.
Using the above process and never having painted before I have achieved
results
that are very satisfactory. Some say great. I am very pleased with pai
nt job
and I did it all my self. Very rewarding indeed!
I have since learned that Phoenix Composites (a builder assist shop in A
rizona)
uses the same products without the clear coat. Certainly the clear coat
is more
labor intensive; however I believe the additional UV protection and grea
t
looks are worth the effort. One final note, the above products are ver
y user
friendly and have a very steep learning curve. Most mistakes can be easi
ly fixed.
I converted my garage into a spry booth with filtered inlet air and a co
uple
of box fans with filters for the exit air (didnt want overspray on the v
ehicles
parked in the driveway). You will need a breath air system such as the
Hobby Air since the paint contains nasty chemicals that a respirator is
unable
to cope with.
Well I hope the above has been helpful.
Regards,
Erich Trombley
N28ET Classic Mono 914
Las Vegas, NV
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>Below is a copy of the message I posted a few years back on the
process and products I used on my Europa. Take it for what it is
worth. This was my first painting project and I am very pleased wi
th the results.</P>
<P>Regards,</P>
<P>Erich Trombley</P>
<P> </P>
<P>The following is what I have<BR>used on my Europa. The process
and products were handed down to me from another<BR>Europa Builder and p
ainting guru (Lynn Elsner) whos Europa is eight years<BR>old and looks a
s good today as it did the day he painted it. Lynn has been using<
BR>this combination of primer and paint for many years on a number of ai
rplanes<BR>and the products have been around for even longer with proven
results. <BR><BR><FONT color=#a000a0>Primer PPG K36 Acryl
ic Urethane Primer/Sealer.<BR></FONT><BR>This is really nice stuff to wo
rk with. It is a two part primer that can be rolled<BR>on with eas
e (much to Lynn's surprise). I really love working with it.
The<BR>final rolled coat looks so smooth you would swear it was sprayed.
The fiberglass substrate only needs<BR>to be initially sande
d to 80 grit as the primer can easily fill the sanding<BR><FONT color=
#a000a0>marks (PPG recommends 80-150 grit for dry sanding between coats)
. Prior to painting,<BR></FONT>the primer will need to be wet sand
ed with 320 then 400 grit. <BR><BR>Top coat Sherwin-Williams
Aerospace Coatings Acry-Glow Acrylic Urethane<BR><BR>This is a hi
gh quality aircraft paint that is chemically resistant to most, if<BR>no
t all aircraft fluids. Although somewhat expensive it is well wort
h the cost<BR>($150 gallon including reducers and thinners). This
produce is sprayed with<BR>a convention spray gun. I tried rolling
it on to no avail (left millions of<BR>tiny bubbles in the paint). 
; The product can also be clear coated for additional<BR>UV protection,
which is what I have done. In addition to the UV protection<BR>of
the paint and hopefully the substrate, the plane has a professional look
ing<BR>finish with great depth. Although many nay sayers cite subs
tantial weight increase,I<BR>disagree. When using a clear coat the
objective is to apply just enough<BR>color coat to cover the grey prime
r (usually one tack coat followed by two<BR>full coats). The color
coat is then wet sanded (1,000 grit), thus removing<BR>even more weight
and surface imperfections, prior to the application of the clear<BR>coa
t. One tack coat followed by three heavy coats<BR> of clear finish
es the painting. Next, the clear coat is wet sanded with 1,000,<BR
>1,200 and finally 1,500 (again removing more weight and any surface imp
erfections).<BR>Finally the surface is polished with a professional poli
sher and 3M<BR>polishing compound. <BR><BR>Using the above process
and never having painted before I have achieved results<BR>that are ver
y satisfactory. Some say great. I am very pleased with paint
job<BR>and I did it all my self. Very rewarding indeed!<BR><BR>I
have since learned that Phoenix Composites (a builder assist shop in Ari
zona)<BR>uses the same products without the clear coat. Certainly
the clear coat is more<BR>labor intensive; however I believe the additio
nal UV protection and great<BR>looks are worth the effort. O
ne final note, the above products are very user<BR>friendly and have a v
ery steep learning curve. Most mistakes can be easily fixed.<BR>I conver
ted my garage into a spry booth with filtered inlet air and a couple<BR>
of box fans with filters for the exit air (didnt want overspray on the v
ehicles<BR>parked in the driveway). You will need a breath air sys
tem such as the<BR>Hobby Air since the paint contains nasty chemicals th
at a respirator is unable<BR>to cope with.<BR><BR>Well I hope the above
has been helpful.<BR><BR>Regards,<BR>Erich Trombley<BR>N28ET Classic Mon
o 914<BR>Las Vegas, NV <BR><BR><BR></P></html>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value";>http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
|