Ron,
Looks like you've come up with a resourceful solution to a nasty
problem. Do you have any additional pixs to illustrate your fix?
Fred
On Wednesday, June 20, 2007, at 09:21 PM, <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
wrote:
> Hello Graham
>
> "> the thing that bothers me, epoxy will not bond reliably to stainless
>> steel. That's why the bushes are prone to coming loose.
>> The only way we can get any secure bonding is by mechanical means. IOW
>> saw cuts, drilled dimples etc."
>
> Our accelerated stabilators had one of the inner bushings debond the
> first
> time fitting the TT.
>
> We took the "Europa Mutilation" route, went at the bushings from the
> bottom, cut grooves and rough sanded, first ply was Redux/BID and
> Redux/Flox covered in peel ply, and subsequent layers Aeropoxy.
>
> I garbage picked a thin wall Carbon Fiber oar from a rowing skull and
> connected the 2 bushings. Same procedure, Redux first ply, then
> Aeropoxy.
>
> My outer bushing got drilled right through the bottom by the
> accelerator
> with the oversize drill used for drain, thus the pip pin would not
> grab.
> Lakeland sent me next size pip pins, but I canned the whole idea of pip
> pins. I am using solid stainless cap head Allen shoulder screws
> (www.mcmaster.com type in stainless shoulder screws, then socket). I
> turned a threaded base which I knurled and got it stuck when
> reinforcing
> the outer bushing joint.
>
> For the top, I turned a smooth ID wall cup knurled on the OD, just
> large
> enough to accept 2 seals and got it stuck. The top receptacle and
> bottom
> threaded base is stuck well, in event the outer bushing debonded, this
> would hold the stabilators in place.
>
> I have no drain on bottom, just can see the head of cap screw that is
> flush with stabilator. The 2 seals I am certain would prevent the
> screws
> from ever backing out (also from water ingress), but I installed mini
> ball
> nose plunger to catch a grove on the screw (incorporated in the top
> receptacle)
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
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