Mike,
Go to www.jamarperformance.com<http://www.jamarperformance.com/> out of
California. They have all the prices, new seals, etc. I cleaned mine
first and reassembled. On one brake I did find a burr, but not anymore.
Just sand it out I do not care to use hydraulic fluid which should
require buna seals. Check with Jamar. I prefer Dot 5 (silicone) as any
leaks do not create a mess on the interior or exterior and there is no
problem with seal compatibility. The problem is that it is tougher to
bleed because the bubbles don't move by fluid movement easily.
Technique on bleeding (once you get your new seals): Get a syringe
which holds about 4 oz of fluid. Any type of pressure container will
do, as long as it will not inject air into the fluid when compressing.
Put a 1/8 - 3/16 hose (I use urethane) on it and attach to the brake
caliper. Open the valve and push the fluid up. Mild pressure of a
couple psi is all it takes. You have to have good fittings on your
syringe because the fluid is slick and if the hose pops off it will go
everywhere. Rotate the brake master on its side and rock it so the
cross hole will allow air to go into the reservoir chamber and up to the
reservoir. It's 30 minutes for the first one and 3 for the second side.
I always make my brake master the highest point in the pressure side to
eliminate air bubble chasing. The reservoir needs to be about 3-6
inches above the masters.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
Europa Dealer.
----- Original Message -----
From: DuaneFamly@aol.com<mailto:DuaneFamly@aol.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 5:38 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Master Brake Cylinder
Good day All,
I was attempting to bleed my brake system but wasn't having too much
luck. So I pulled my Jamar master cylinder and found that the large seal
nearest the spring was torn to pieces....on BOTH side! I am hoping that
this was just an error in insufficient lubrication when reassembling
after I tore the master cylinder down to clean out the crude that seemed
to be left over after the manufacturing. The part number off the seal is
220-L-4502 along with a 54. If my resources were correct then this
should be made of Buna-N (Nitrile) and is compatible with my Hydraulic
Fluid 41 Mil-H 5606G. The other seal is marked ADM-45 2110....also
Nitrile?
So here are my questions:
1) Am I right about the material and the compatibility?
2) Is there a source for me to order replacement seals in the US?
3) Is there a lubricant that I should be using when I reassemble the
cylinders?
4) Are people still sanding down the outer edge of the white disc to
prevent sticking?
5) Are builders replacing the spring with a stronger one or adding
another spring?
Thanks in advance for any replies.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
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