Fred,
It is as Craig said. Only remove the area where the dumb joggle juts
out and interferes with the hinge.
The lower section is very thick and if you did not clamp your stern post
in tight, it tends to be 3/16 of an inch thick.
I just fill in the rudder area and blend. Life is too short. Cutting
the stern post would weaken the area somewhat, but proper reapplication
of plies would make a significant reduction in the thickness.
Just a thought.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
<fklein@orcasonline.com<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>>
...just as an aside, the concept of "trial fitting"...the time and the
number of repetitions required...is something I had no real
appreciation for at the beginning of my Europa adventure...
Regarding the rudder, I notice that the flange which receives the
hinges is significantly thinner than the assembly of the molded FG
vertical fin along with the starboard flange of the sternpost, an
assembly which also receives the rudder hinge leaves.
The manual talks about relieving the starboard flange assembly locally
for the "hinge pivot" but sez nothin bout removing enough of the
thickness of the assembly in such a way which would allow for the fin
and starboard rudder surfaces to be in the same plane, unless one were
to add a significant amount of filler.
I'm tempted to remove portions of the starboard flange of the
sternpost just a tad larger than the area of the hinge leaves; then
add and overlap onto the sternpost the 2 layers of BID upon which will
rest the hinges.
Please (anyone) advise if doing this is not a good thing...or
alternative methods for dealing with what must be an issue with every
XS.
Thanks,
Fred
A194
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