Gary and those lowing the oil cooler to get better cooling.
I figure 8:30 AM at your hangar and about two or three hours max. I too
have an afternoon commitment.
Keep in mind that once the job is done, the engine is not just burped,
but the plugs pulled and turn the prop / engine until the oil cooler to
oil pump line is primed and we register oil pressure. If we start the
engine with an air bubble in this feed line, I guarantee that we'll have
no oil pressure for about 10-15 seconds and probably do some wear and
even some damage. It probably won't kill the engine, but the cam shaft,
crank and valve train will show the wear and possibly shorten the time
to overhaul.
So let's not get in a hurry.
To do the job I have:
23 and 24 mm wrenches cut short enough to properly loosen the oil
fitting on the cooler.
5/16 socket and extra long extension to get down there from above.
Wrenches
Socket set
Plug socket,
Hose cutter
Dremel tool and cutoff wheel in case we can't quite get a full two
inches.
Tin snips.
Seaming pliers.
Parts needed and on hand:
I have the straight fitting HEF 3-8 oil fitting,
AN 4-24 bolts and nuts with 2 inch steel tube spacers to move the
cooler down.
I have a spare oil hose if we need to change it out.
Spare clamps for the hose.
A piece of sheet metal that will fill the void under the oil cooler to
the cowl.
Small angles to close the hole left on each side of the oil cooler when
lowered.
If you can pull the cowl off between rain showers and have plenty of
shop towels and catch basins for the oil that will surely be dripped.
If you have a little extra cowl seal that would be great, I only have a
sliver left.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry<mailto:garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
To: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Hi Bud,
Yes, this Saturday will be great...........8:30 AM. I have a
commitment in the afternoon so will have to leave by 1:00. Do you think
we can finish up by then? What tools, materials, etc. will I need to
have at the hanger?
Garry
----- Original Message -----
From: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
To: Garry<mailto:garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Gary,
It is the gear leg and leg to fuselage / pant fairing that is so
tedious on the RV. The set of transition fairings supplied by some
third party were crap, so I modified them and they were still crap. So
I made them from clay and then they fit OK. I also hated the metal
bracket alignment method Van's uses. Again, tedious. The horizontal
and vertical tail fairings were really a bad fit also. I had to do a
refill and reglass in place to get it to look OK. As far as any
manufacturers wheel pants, they go together fairly easy. It is the
mounting, reinforcing, mud flaps etc. that make my knees ache thinking
about it. When I did the RV's, I jacked the planes to get the weight
off the wheels to get a good alignment on the pants and had that to work
around, making it a bit more of a pain. But they were a nice job.
Just wish the wing wasn't on first.
Maybe I'm getting old and complaining a lot.
I have the fittings in the shop to drop your oil cooler. Next week
is bad, how about Saturday the 23rd of May? It's hot, so first thing in
the AM, about 8:30.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry<mailto:garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
To: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:41 AM
Subject: Fw: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Hi Bud,
I agree with comments about the Europa nose and maingear wheel
pants. A crappy and flimsy design. But what did you mean about "doing
an RV speed kit"? I never heard of anything called a "speed kit" for an
RV. I thought my wheel pants and fairings I got from Vans were pretty
good, and went together easily. Not true for the leg to fuselage
fairings. They required alot of work.
Will be able to get together some time to drop my oil cooler?
Garry
----- Original Message -----
From: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Frans,
Most of the time in a situation like yours, I add glass to the
front cover gap, tape it in place on the rear pant where it looks good
and fits without flexing (with release tape of course) and allow to cure
to fill the gaps. Then sand and fill.
Having made my own entire speed kit, I disagree with your point on
being a bargain. Although the nose gear pant is wonky, the gear leg
covers are finiky, try making them from scratch or even buying from a
third party. It takes me a half day per 5 day week to mold my pants,
and wing covers. Gear legs and covers take another two days. Yes they
are very nice, but then I have to make the metal parts, get the
fasteners and hardware together etc. It still takes 40 hours to do a
nice job of alignment, fillets and transitions that allow full gear leg
movement without cracking. I have about 60 hours into my set and I will
not make another. I'll buy them. The mods to make them fit nicely is
far easier. Try doing an RV speed kit sometime....Talk about
frustrating.
It is always about life being too short and time is money isn't
it.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Frans Veldman<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
<frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>>
ALAN YERLY wrote:
> Looks great, I never thought of that Frans, looks fast and
easy.
I didn't think of that as well. I was just wondering whether I
could
force the front half somewhat in the correct direction. To do
this, I
attached the starboard side of the front half fairing to the
rear half
of the fairing, to be able to bend the port side, and then
discovered
that I could get the correct shape, without any bending, but at
the cost
of creating a gap at the port seal. If you try to close this
gap, the
fairing twists and takes its odd shape again. Leave it alone,
and all is
right.
I love to think out solutions, but this one is really a
coincidence, not
the result of thinking.
Next time you prepare a speed kit, try it, and let me know if it
works
out the same for you.
I think it is a shame that it isn't covered in the manual. These
parts
are not really a bargain, I somehow expected that the manual is
adjusted
to the experiences of builders (and preferably, not only the
manual but
the parts as well).
--
Frans nbsp; Features Chat, http://www.matronnbsp; via
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href="http://forums.matronics.com";>http://forums.matronics.com<http://w
ww.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
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title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution";>http://www.matronics.com/c
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