Sven,
Mode S is (fortunately) not yet mandatory for VFR in France. To my
understanding
it is enforced only for IFR flights.
Most small aircraft are still equipped with mode C, and there is no problem at
the moment to get clearance into C/D airspaces, nor with flight information
services.
The following link show the status in Europe:
http://www.eurocontrol.int/msa/public/standard_page/General_aviation_VFR.html
Have a nice trip !
Jean-Paul
Europa 332
France
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