Hi Group
I am close to bonding in place the front and rear lift pin sockets and have a
few
areas I would like input from those that have already done this task:
1) Did you bond in place both the starboard and port wing lift pin sockets at
the
same time? How did the incidence come out once the supports were removed? Did
it change? If so which way did the change occur? Would you recommend to do
both wings at once if you were to do it again?
I am on fence at the moment on this one. My starboard wing needs more upward
force
(I have a pump jack pushing up between the middle and outer flap on the trail
edge of the wing) than the port one does (the port requires very little upward
force). I am thinking I may want to bond the starboard side first. This way
if it twangs to a little more angle of attack, I would set the port wing to
match and probably have a better chance the port wing would not twang because
it is pretty happy with very little upward external forces on the trail edge.
2) To set proper angle of incedence, did you only push up on the trail edge of
the wing between the middle and outer flap hinge and let the wing be supported
by the spar pins? In other words the wing is only supported a little by the
lifting
of the trail edge, but mostly by pushing down on the spar pin closer to
the root of the wing, and pushing up on the spar pin near the tip of the spar?
Then bond in place the the starboard and port wing lift pin sockets.
I am on the fence on this one as well. I am thinking I want to also push up on
the tip of the wing trailing edge at about the most outboard portion of the
aileron
to get the spar pins to the point where I can at least rotate them.
I am afraid if I just set incidence by pushing up between the middle and outer
flap hinge, there is so much weight from gravity pushing on the spar pins and
jamming them, if I bond in place the lift pin sockets in this configuration it
may be very hard to rig and derig because the spar pins are binding.
3) This is just a curiosity question to see if there are others out there that
made the blunder I did when installing the rear socket shims.
We fabricated shims with wings rigged and angle of incedence set, taped a piece
of paper to fuse with circles on it and taped it in place to target the center
of the rear socket, had a .090" spacer on the shim, after drilling a small hole
in the center of paper template and shims then bonded the shim in place with
JB KWIK weld using the holes with the back of a drill bit for alignment and
4 BID over the shims.
OK 4 BID cured and time for a trial fit. This time instead of relying on my Mk
1 eyeball to make sure that 26B and 26A are in the middle of their wiggle, we
temporarily bonded in place G-10 spacers that holds these items perfectly in the
center of their wiggle room where the outboard side of the 26B housing is
parallel
with the inboard 26A body (this is the side that will be bonded to the
fuse).
After trial fit we discovered not very nice results.
Oh well, tomorrow will be grinding off the top portion of these pads and adding
some shim to the bottom portion and reglassing.
I should have put on the G-10 shims first to hold the assembly neutral, it would
have saved me this second step.
Anyway it kinda fits as is but any positive Gs will be loading the 26A body
because
it is at the limit.
Thanking you in advance.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315408#315408
|