Hi Graeme,
Sorry to pee on your parade [ mixed metaphors ?] but the paint you are usei
ng will not have enough ultraviolet block in it [ despite what the sales gu
y will tell you].
It will only have enough to stop the pigment fading, offering no protection
to the substrate [ epoxy]
The clue is in the recommended / approved paint system paint code, UVR .
Normal auto paints have no more than 5 or 6% protection at best, I am not f
amilar with the paint you list, I guess it is a Transport vehicle product,
which may have even less ?
The UVR specs' claim something like 97%.
In the back of the ''Blue Book'' there is a question.... '' has an alternat
ive paint been used '' for a very good reason.
You may be able to find a carbon black primer [ as Rutan specified before t
he advent of hi UV block topcoats] that can go over the high build to keep
the UV out [Graham Singleton will know about that].
The ''proper paint'' is not twice the price because the manufacturers want
twice the profit, it is because it is four times the quality,which costs...
. it will still be shiney in 15 years time, truck paint will be flat / chal
king in 5, tops.......
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: graeme bird <graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>
Sent: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:10
Subject: Europa-List: Spraying questions
I am preparing to spraying the top coats (underside of elevators, then wing
s
irst!) and have a couple of simple questions I am using 2K acrylic Octoral
F131 high build primer and Dellfleet 350 top coat:
a) how to spray large areas like wings - whether better to work in squares
or
alk down the wing each time? My paint says cross coats and I am using the s
low
hinner.
b) do I need to let the primer dry ie 24 hours or is it better to spray soo
ner
nd get a better bond. I would guess dry would be best and fine sand off any
iny blemmishes.
Thanks
--------
raeme Bird
-UMPY
ono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
uild nearing completion
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=338146#338146
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