Through flight test find out what the indicated stall speed is at gross
weight and full flap of YOUR aircraft, then multiply this by 1.3, this is
your normal approach speed.
If it is gusty then add half the gust speed, if it is flat calm or a stead
breeze and you are light weight, [single place] then you can creeper it in
carrying a little power at minus five knots standard approach speed.
Practice at altitude flying in the landing configuration [full flap]at your
standard approach speed and get used to the feel of the aircraft, 'recognize
the first nibble of a stall', do it until you are really COMFORTABLE,
practice rate one turns left and right keeping the ball centred.
Ideally practice on a long wide runway with clear approaches, take your time
so you develop a 'feel' for the aircraft.
When you get it right the aircraft 'dies in your hand' one inch above your
chosen touch down point!!! But don't expect it too often!
Regards
Ivan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
Sent: 13 April 2012 14:47
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Approach and Landing Speeds
--> <frans@privatepilots.nl>
On 04/13/2012 11:43 AM, Carl Meek wrote:
> I've been typically flying short final at 70, over the fence at 65.
> However, I've found the float can be quite excessive
A little bit of extra speed has a very markable influence on the flare.
Try a bit lower speed. If the stall characteristics of your ship are benign,
there is nothing to worry about to get over the fence with 60, provided
there is no strong wind or thermal situation.
> Frans, am I understanding you correctly that for a short field you
> actually come 'over the fence' and then retract the flaps before
> touching down?
You can do that just before touching down, but the timing is critical.
If you to it too early you will get the opposite effect as you are taking
the drag of the flaps away. I usually start retracting the flaps just when
the airplane is about to settle down. This will take away the lift and also
causes the wheels to have more grip on the ground, which is a good thing if
you want to start braking immediately.
This could be more interesting if the flaps could be operated much faster,
i.e. by hand rather than by a servo. Anyone an idea why the flaps where made
electric on the tri-gear?
I have to confess that I modified the flap gear slightly: I drilled a hole
in the arm of the torque tube just below the original hole, so the leverage
to the servo is a bit less. This causes the flaps to extend 3 degrees
further and also speeds up the movement of the flaps.
(If I understand the history of the Europa correctly, the flaps where
originally designed for 30 degrees, but the extension was limited to 27
degrees after one found out that 30 degrees allows the mono to take off
earlier than control is achieved. In a tri-gear we don't have to worry too
much about this.)
Frans
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