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Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73

Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
From: Richard Collings <rcollings@talktalk.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 20:25:32
Hi Bud
I have been following with interest this problem because whilst I was 
building my Europa I became very unhappy with the design which required 
a degree of precision machining and fitting that was not available to 
the average builder - me.
I overcame the problem with mod 11969 which replaced the TP14 pins with 
close tolerance bolts which when tightened up on to a shaped nut plate 
mounted inside the torque tube clamped everything together so removing 
any chance of fretting taking place. There is little or no tube 
distortion and as I had to rig test my design in order to gain LAA 
approval, found that with all the bolts torque up to 200 lbs inches the 
assembly could transmit 90 lbs ft before slipping. No glue, no 
hammering. 
I would appreciate your opinion on this mod.
Regards
Richard Collings

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bud Yerly 
  To: europa-list@matronics.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2012 11:40 PM
  Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73


  Pete and Bob
  Had the same kind of idea.  Putting a slotted tube bored for the pins 
and use flush riveted nutplates in the tube with bolts to clamp the 
tubes together.  Install by sliding in the nutplated tube and aligning 
the holes.  However, that still will distort the tubes when the bolts 
are turned down making removal almost impossible as in tapered pins.  My 
other idea was an expanding bolt.  A 1/4 inch bolt with a steel insert 
in the center and two bronze bushings at the ends so that as the bolt is 
tightened, the bronze expands like a rivet and fills the small gap, 
making it tight.  My A&P said, why not just rivet it in place.  Just 
change the stab to allow it to rotate a full 90 degrees to allow 
riveting.  

  However, what we have works, is maintainable and can be assembled by 
amateurs using drift pins and bolts (which allow a loose fit) during 
assembly and allows for a solid install provided the holes and pins are 
correctly sized for zero clearance.

  Good ideas though,
  Bud
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Pete 
    To: europa-list@matronics.com 
    Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2012 5:51 PM
    Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73


    Thinking out loud here,  what about very accurately machining 
substantive internal bolt bushings (made of a material to not cause 
galvanic corrosion), tap them all the way down the tube to their proper 
location, then bolt tight the two tubes without fear of distortion?


    Just throwing it out there,
    Cheers,
    Pete

    On Oct 14, 2012, at 4:47 PM, "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk> 
wrote:


      You could drill and thread the heads of the parallel pins and use 
a bolt to Jack the out if needed.

      Regards

      Bob Harrison G-PTAG

       

      From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com 
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM 
SINGLETON
      Sent: 14 October 2012 18:14
      To: europa-list@matronics.com
      Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73

       

      No, they would distort the torque tube which must be perfectly 
circular

      Graham

       


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

      From: Pete <peterz@zutrasoft.com>
      To: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-list@matronics.com> 
      Sent: Sunday, 14 October 2012, 14:04
      Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73

       

      I fully understand the requirement for an interference pin fit to 
avoid the hammering out of the holes over time. 

      That said, could "taper pins" be used?

       

      cheers,

      Pete


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