Hi! Jon and original enquirer......re:- wing rigging.
Further to Jon's submission I would add that the main problem is the
vertical positioning of the wing tip to the port wing to so align it's spa
with the starboard locating socket. I have extended the upper and lower
entrance ramps by having two 6" lengths of thin angle welded to the original
entrance of the socket and also redux bonded to the seat back with the
socket.. Making a "VEE" to locate the end of the spar and so run it into the
socket. I then have a tufnol guide/slide slotted into which the spar slides
into the entrance at the port side of the aircraft. Then on entry the wing
tip is simply maintained hard aft to enter tight to the starboard seat back
until engaged with the guide extensions, this pivots the spar end into
place. Somewhere in the age old photo gallery is pictures of the welded
ramps but I hope this description helps you. (Not forgetting to connect
"pito" pipes etc.)
Having engaged the port wing this it's rear lift lock pin is inserted since
you don't want to poke it all back out when engaging the starboard wing
!(Been there done that !)
Then similarly the starboard spa is guided by another tufnol slide and slot
and vertical alignment is provided once the spa tip has engaged with the
"cuff" which is pre-bonded round the port spar. Finally ensure all pins are
properly engaged.
Hope this helps .....my trike never flys without being re-rigged and
de-rigged on completion.
A small addition of these items once, saves much future frustration and
re-fixing of the starboard seat back spa socket after it has been knocked
off!(been there done that !)
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JonSmith
Sent: 12 January 2013 23:16
Subject: Europa-List: Re: wings removed for first annual whats the trick for
refitting
--> <jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi, I'm sure everyone has their own method but I rig from my open trailer
every time I fly and this seems to work for me:
Always put the port wing on first. Slide it right home ensuring the front
and rear wing pins enter their respective fuselage sockets and the flap pin
locates in the flap cross tube end bearing. Then insert both main pins
through the seat back far enough to hold the port wing located in the
correct position height wise (but not too far so that they interfere with
the starboard wing when you put it in!). Keep the wing supported though -
see below.
Now slide the starboard wing into place, fully home (remember the flap tube
again!) and push the main pins fully into position. Fit both rear socket
pip pins and jobs done!
Notes:
I always support the weight of each wing until both wings are in position
AND the main spar pins are fully inserted. I think that not doing so would
ask too much of the spar rigging cup sockets which are only location guides
and not structural. I use a well padded plastic saw horse trestle from B&Q
under the port wing; about half way down the wing seems to put it at the
right height to support it whilst I rig the stbd wing. I always rig on my
own and have a rotating trolley to transport and rotate each wing in turn.
Don't forget any pitot/ static and/ or electrical connections that you may
have in the wing roots.
I find keeping all the pins well greased makes a world of difference for
easy insertion. (Isn't that always the case....?!)
Putting the main pins in part way to aid the port wing's correct location
prior to fitting the stbd wing also seems to make the whole job much easier.
To get the pins fully home then just might require slight adjustment to the
height of the stbd tip as the port one must already be correct.
If it doesn't seem to go well take several steps back from the aircraft and
eye the whole thing up. Does it look right? Are both wings at the correct
height? Obviously if one or both are not in the right position the pins
will never go in! Also are the wing tips exactly correct fore and aft?
Look at the gaps between the wing root fairings and the fuselage. Do they
look exactly right (small gaps and parallel).
If your plane is nice and tight you may need some effort to ensure both
wings really are fully home. I sometimes have to "bump" my wingtips inwards
with my hands to ensure this. Again Look at the gaps between the root
fairing and the fuselage.
Make sure the button on the port main pin pip pin pops right out into it's
correct position otherwise it will not be locked and would creep out. Also
that the two small pip pins are fully home with their balls out!
Finally check again both flaps have definitely located - pins into the tube
- it is possible to miss!
Re. the tail planes - I think if you leave it rigged it would be sensible to
remove them and re-grease them quite often - every month maybe?? I've heard
that given time the slightest bit of corrosion can make them pigs to remove.
Stitch in time.... This one doesn't apply to me as I rig every time.
Cheers!
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
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