Hi,
Has anyone used the proper Rotax tool for setting the float levels.
We have just overhauled the carburettors using the Bing overhaul kit
(nearly
=A3300 from Skydrive) ' this was long overdue and should be done
every 5
years. I assumed that the supplied float operating arm would be factory
set
but it seems this is not the case.
According to the maintenance manual, a special tool should be used which
I
understand can be hired from Skydrive for a nominal charge. Looking at
the
manual it looks as though the float arms need to be parallel to the main
carb body but I could be wrong in this assumption.
The upshot of the overhaul has been a rough running engine which upon
investigation looks like a weak mixture. Conrad Beales website says that
if
you remove the float bowls after running the engine the fuel level
should be
1=928 =93 (3mm) from the top of the bowl ' we had nearer 8- 10 mm.
Looks like
we need to order up the setting tool and do the job properly.
So back to the original question ' anyone used the adjustment tool and
how
easy was this. Failing this is there another better way.
I spoke briefly to Kevin Dilks and he suggested that the float arms
should
be parallel(as above) but I=92m not sure this is a precise enough
setting.
PS: thanks all for your comments on THROTTLE STOPS ' I am inclined to
agree
with Duncan in his observation that the carb stops are the main ones
that
can be overridden by applying gentle backpressure on the throttle lever
to
give a usefully reduced RPM on descent ' with the cockpit stop acting
as the
safety backup to prevent damaging the carb throttle arms etc.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan &
Ami
Sent: 01 June 2013 08:53
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's
useful
to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first, followed
closely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever is
deliberately pulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This limits
any
excess strain that can be applied to the cables, but provides a useful
facility to temporarily pull down the idle speed in flight (which in any
case will still always be well above the static setting, as the forward
motion drives the prop). As soon as the deliberate backpressure on the
lever
is released, 'normal service' is resumed
This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is
helpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
Duncan McF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Pattinson
Sent: 30 May 2013 09:23
Subject: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
I seem to recall in the early days of Europa that the PFA dictated that
we
should install a physical throttle stop on the throttle lever (in the
cockpit).
I have never really understood the purpose of this as the carburettors
have
their own stops as IMHO one seems to fight against the other. As soon as
you
increase the idle RPM using the adjuster screws on the carb, the
throttle
lever is pulled forward by the cables, moving the lever away from the
cockpit stop.
We have flown quite happily with the carb stop limiting the slow running
with a gap of about 2 mm between the rear of the throttle lever and the
stop block (tufnol). However, we have just overhauled the carbs and are
resetting the balances etc so were wondering if this omission needs to
be
addressed ' it would just be a matter of elongating the holes in the
throttle stop.
Reading through various articles on Rotax/ Bing carburettor balancing I
note
that these also stress the need for a cockpit end stop but give no
explanation as to why.
I=92m sure there is a good reason, just need someone to cast some light
on
this.
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