Tony,
If you have a gap but the plate is parallel or close to parallel to the
tube you can put a small joggle in the steel. However then your bolt
hole to edge distance becomes critical on the wood glass gusset. If
there is still good edge distance you'll be OK.
Another method is to put a filler strip to take up the gap of steel.
Just a short strip with a couple holes in it match drilled will do.
It should only add a bit of time and be more than secure.
All one is looking for is to keep the tube stable.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Renshaw<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 2:00 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Gusset plates
<tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>>
Gidday,
I am having trouble with the gusset plates. I used the 12 ply supplied
and shaped it accordingly, except I have about a 5 mm gap from ply to
tie rod. The cloth will take up approx half of that. So, I bonded on the
ply and then layed up the 4 plies of BID, which in essence thickens the
ply by 8 plies. So, now that its all done I have a 2-3 mm gap +/- and
the gusset plates do not sit parallel. For the other side I lightly
clamped the plates together as the BID cured, in situ, and they were
covered in Canauba Wax for a release agent. So, that side is OK, but the
first side I have a problem I am hoping I can use Redux and Flox to pack
out both the gap between rod and ply, and also to create a flat bed for
the gusset plates. I am wondering this would be considered an acceptable
way to fix things? I know Redux and Flox is a pretty tough mix and the
loads in this region I do not consider will challenge what I am doing,
as something would have already broken, like a wing!
Regards
Tony Renshaw
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