Update on Mod 78:
I found the problem with a camera on a snake - those things are really cheap
now.
$60. I went in through the air brake hole. It revealed that the forward socket
pin was not fully engaging as well. I used the old socket as a guide to drill
the hole through the metal plate and did not get the hole large enough. The
pin was contacting the metal and not going all the way in.
I drilled it out larger and now the pin goes in, the aft pin goes in and I was
able to get the wing in with all pins engaged. I checked the dihedral and it is
right.
I have the starboard wing in its post cure tonight - pulling an all nighter.
That
was a change of plans. I chickened out on the thermostatically controlled
heater.
It was cold soaked overnight and over-reacted. INstead, I went with lights
and a small heater in the fan mode only. Trial and error ended up with 388
watts to maintain the 50C. Being paranoid and not wanting to overheat the spar,
I have 4 measurements of the temperature. It stabilized in the foam panel oven
at the right temperature and there is no risk of over temping the spar tang.
It is in an insulated hangar and might drop as the night gets colder. I've
got a couple trips to make out there in the middle of the night.
Next step is to fit the right wing and set up the rigging cure. glue in the
bushings
and hopefully the airplane can fly again.
If you are going to do this mod, do it as soon as you can in a non flying
airplane.
The camera helped with seeing the front pin, but without the root fairing
it is much easier.
Bud: I will go with the inspection hole in the fairing if I run into the
problems.
Thanks for the suggestion. That would be on the bottom and make seeing the
socket easy.
Attached pictures of the cure setup tonight. Almost there!
Dave
A227
Mini U2
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414095#414095
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tv_view_of_socket_455.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_cure_final_126.jpg
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