You are correct in your assumptions. The gap on the sides and bottom is wh
at folks look at. For initial fitting, the sides can be a popsicle stick.
Final prior to paint should be 1/8 inch for primer and paint. Do round of
f slightly the sharp edges prior to final prime and paint. I like 1/8 all
around the sides and sill on final finish for esthetics, but just make it e
ven.
The top has to allow full clearance of the curve. The tabs on the side can
be tight at 3/32" after hinges are finalized. Of course the tab has to be
fitted to the rebate. Some require a 3/8" gap sanded to clear for paint o
n full opening.
Have fun make it fit perfectly now and it pays dividends later on.
Bud Yerly,
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Sep 18, 2017 1:05 PM, Kelvin Weston <kelv@kdweston.biz> wrote:
Hi All
I am just about to tackle fitting the doors.
After reading the build manual 12 times and Bud's excellent 'Door Fitting'
article several times, I am pretty sure I know what I need to achieve.
However, a couple of questions before I set to it with the Permagrit block:
1. What sort of gap am I trying to get between the door flange and the fus
elage recess? A mixing stick? or a bit more?
2. Is it a good idea to slightly round off and lose the sharp edge off the
inner and outer edges of the door flange to prevent paint flaking and chip
ping?
Also, I am assuming that all door fitting is completed before fitting any d
oor seals.
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv@kdweston.biz
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