Thanks all, I was in touch with the new Rotax dealers. Their tech is very go
od.
I have the wrong oil pressure transmitter for the Flydat. I need a VDO trans
mitter.
Anyone got one?
Alan Twigg
G-GIWT
Kit 463
Sent from my iPhone
> On 21 May 2019, at 16:33, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Alan,
> Good advice from all.
>
> Once the oil system is secure and connections tight, ensure the oil tank i
s filled, disconnect the oil line to the pump at the front and pressurize th
e oil tank through the vent hole until the oil supply line is purged of air (
your oil cooler is now full). Reconnect your oil line, then check the sende
r is connected and operational. (You did put oil in the filter before insta
lling it or there will be a large air bubble in the system which won=99
t clear for some agonizing seconds.)
>
> I test my sensors prior to engine run when I can ( I have an air pressure s
ource and a manifold with regulator to screw the sensor into to either calib
rate or check it). On existing engines I normally do not remove the oil sen
sor, because like Bob Harrison, I prime the engine first by pulling and safe
ing the all the plug wires and remove the top plugs, spinning with the start
er for about 10 -15 seconds (by hand is a bit tedious but you can feel the r
esistance of the oil pump when it gets oil) until oil pressure stabilizes on
the gauge, then replace the spark plugs and burp the engine to get the can f
ull again and top off the oil as necessary. With good pressure, I then pull
off the valve covers and check my lifters to see if they are solid. If not
, repeat the pressurization. If you have oil pressure with the engine being
turned (normally 45 to 60 PSI while cranking cold) for 15-20 seconds, the e
ngine oil delivery system is sound and tight. As an engine guy you know it
=99s not rocket science, but reviewing and following the SBs on the primi
ng of the oil system is essential on an engine that has sat for some time.
Trust but verify.
>
> The Rotax pressure bleed is the right thing to do, but again, it takes man
y hands so an assistant is recommended. Did I mention it is messy to prime a
n oil system, so some cleanup may be required. By doing the oil filling and
purge by hand as I do, it allows me to do it alone with only minor cleanup o
f drips rather than by the Rotax Service method alone.
>
> If no oil pressure is found, it is most likely the sensor.
> Obviously a direct reading oil pressure gauge is the best solution for tes
ting oil pressure.
>
> To check your gauge and wiring:
> Remove the oil sensor wire and ground it, note the pressure indication at z
ero, then unground and leave the end isolated and check the indicator again,
it should peg max.
>
> If the above has happened you=99re wiring is OK, but the sender is s
uspect. Test it by hooking to a regulated air source and checking the ohm r
eadings against the rotax manual. If you installed a Honeywell or similar d
igital sender, check the leads are properly wired and connected, and use an a
ir source to check the pressure over the range from 10-100 PSI.
>
> Nine times out of ten, it=99s the sender or wiring. If you have oil
at the pump (cooler is full), the filter is full of oil, the lifters are so
lid, and oil is getting to the bottom of the crankcase that must be burped o
ut, oil is going through the engine for sure. If there is a bad bearing, or
seal that is gone, it will show in one of two ways:
> As low oil pressure during the cranking by hand or starter and on engine s
tart.
> The initial pull on the prop is very high will indicate an internal bearin
g or its support flange has failed.
>
> Fear not, check all is well with the internal and connections as above. I
f it is, then start up.
>
> Bud Yerly
> Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@mat
ronics.com> on behalf of Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 5:51:14 AM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Fly day
>
>
> Hi! Remi.
> The official Rotax plan to bleed the oil cooler calls for the top of the
> tank to be pressurized (so you are correct partly ) however it is not to
> use all the oil in the tank or the oil system would be taking in air
> defeating the objective of bleeding the cooler. Having embarked on bleedin
g
> the oil cooler provided the tank level remains adequate and is topped up t
o
> remain sure the oil cooler is evacuated of air,( that should be sufficient
> to achieve oil pressure on the instrument) then replace the ignition plugs
> and top up with oil which will pressure oil from the sump to the oil pump
> and so evacuate the sump again.( BUT BE SURE NOT TO FINISH UP WITH THE TAN
K
> OVER FILLED!)( Almost wish I hadn't entered into this issue !)
> Regards to all
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Remi Guerner
> Sent: 21 May 2019 08:18
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Fly day
>
>
>
>
> A word of caution here: assuming we are talking about a Rotax, without th
e
> spark plugs, there is no blow-by to pressurize the crankcase, so the oil i
s
> not returned to the tank. Therefore the tank may become empty and you pump
> air into the oil circuit. The crankcase may be flooded.
> To use this method safely, you need to disconnect the oil return line and
> set it so that the oil is drained from the crankcase by gravity, and refi
ll
> the oil tank at the same time to keep the oil level high enough.
>
> Remi
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=489315#489315
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
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>
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