Griffo,
I still use the red fire sleeve for fuel lines. I like Parker / Aeroquip 12 or
10 sized PN FBS2200 fire sleeve. I prefer Parker Stratoflex as it is more
flexible.
Aeroquip is very stiff and is poor for anything under a 2 inch bend
radius. To seal the fuzzy cut ends use either Firewall 2000 or Permatex Red
Silicone
RTV or it looks like hell .
Banding if desired is: 10781-4 clamp to secure fire sleeve material over the
basic
fabricated hose assembly if desired.
For shielding for my coolant tubes and oil lines I use the expensive and
somewhat
delicate Thermo-Tec sleeving. For lower engine coolant and oil lines I use:
Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve P/N:14015 for 1 to 1.5 inch hoses, and P/N: 14011 for
5/8 to 3/4 It lasts 5 years but if it gets covered with coolant the darned
aluminum reflective material falls off. Very fire resistant. Nothing wrong
with
the corrugated aluminum over the one inch lines, as it holds up and its tough.
Yea, I know what you mean about the stick on aluminum. I stay away from the
aluminized
stick on tape because of the fire thing. Why they have a flammable glue,
I don't know why.
I'm not a fan of aluminum flashing because I leave far too much blood and stains
on the edges when working on or around the engine. Of course, I do my trigear
behind the gear firewall with .016 stainless, but I rivet or screw it down
and use the 3M Firebarrier firewall 2000 sealant. I really like that stuff.
Try it on holding the aluminum or stainless on. Works great and not that
costly.
Silicone based, so it is fireproof and a "reasonable" glue and better sealant.
I like it for protecting the cowl where the exhaust is just a little too
close to the cowl, but not close enough to require a cut and reshape of the
cowl. I use that asbestos aluminum/stainless firewall material. It is great
stuff to experience the "die by a thousand cuts" torture. My fingers suffer as
I can't work the stuff with gloves on. I trim it so the stainless side folds
over the raw edge of asbestos side (or whatever that stuff inside is) and then
I just glue it in place with the sealant. It is like a razor blade though
and slow to work with to get it nice and neat. Really works well for both
insulation
and fireproofing and I wouldn't do a trigear without it. I never use
it on a mono unless on the cowl which is just a left over scrap from another
trigear
I finished. I put a torch to it and I felt nothing on the other side.
All the best,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Griffo
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2021 8:10 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: 914 draining coolant and changing coolant lines
Great advise Bud -
I, always "as tight as a bulls arse in the fly season" , have come up with my
own
heat shielding systems, that actually seem to work, as hoses removed/replaced
at 5 years, are still good enough to be recycled for use in ground based
equipment.
Depending on location, I use a combination of malleable builders aluminium
"flashing"
or very thin aluminum sheet (scraps of aircraft skin also). For hoses
that are exposed to very high heat, I supplemented with exhaust bandage,
silicone
glued to inside of aluminium. I use safety wire to hold/clamp the insulation
in place.
For over-engine fuel lines - automotive corrugated sleeve, wrapped in
air-conditioners
reflective foil.
For the most part , the shielding I have made up, can be reused at the 5 year
interval.
Oh! and yes I appreciate that the automotive corrugated tubing is flammable and
would contribute to an engine fuel fire.
As far as weight goes - dont know, but would be minimal as shielding only used
where hoses may be exposed to significant radiant/convection heat.
--------
46
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