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Torque Tube Assembly

Subject: Torque Tube Assembly
From: Tim Ward <ward.t@xtra.co.nz>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 14:38:17
Torque Tube Assembly (Chapter 6)
Hints for those to fillow.
1.I assembled the torque tube (TP4) to the tailplane on a separate 30mm 
sheet of MCF laid on the workshop table. This enabled me to screw the 2 
'A 'Blocks to the sheet from underneath, set 100mm from the front edge 
and placed the required distance apart to slot onto TP4 as shown in the 
manual.
2. Like Tony K. I then placed a heavy duty  bungee cord  from each side 
of the MCF sheet passing over the centre stabilator connector (TP?). I 
also used 2 Ratchet tie downs (used on trailers) to secure the torque 
tube running from each side of the MCF  passing over the torque tube 
between TP 12s  and the centre stabilator connection.
3.The TP 12's  were of different angled position (such that was indicated 
by the level however read on) when fitted to TP 4. (0.4 degrees) So I 
chose to do the starboard torque tube first and once TP12 was level, I 
tightened the ratchet tie downs, checked again that starboard TP 12 was 
level, and then glued TP4 to the 'A' blocks as per the manual.  
(Certainly I do not believe that solely using glue is sufficiently strong 
 to keep the torque tube in position with the number of times you have to 
'dry fit' the tailplane.)
4. I then slid the starboard tailplane on , firstly using sewing machine 
oil to lubricate TP4 , up to but clear of the pins. Using the manual  
template, I levelled the tailplane  as per the manual
I then used an ink stamp pad to place ink on the ends of the pins. I slid 
the tailplane further to touch the pins and drew with a pencil around the 
pins carefully to add another reference
Rechecking the level, I then slid the tailplane off and first drilled a 
small hole where the pins marked the tailplane.
5. Using the circular foam that came out of the TP4 lightening hole I 
replaced it in  30mm to use as a guide to the angle of the drilling 
needed for the TP 13 bush holes.
6. I drilled the holes and then dry fitted the tailplane to check 
comfortable fit. Some extra drilling was needed to get the required fit.
7. I also marked the depth of the bushes on the pins with a felt pen. 
Like Tony K. I sealed up the internal end of  the bush with masking tape 
cut to shape. I added  a pin hole in the tape to allow the air to escape. 
This is to stop flox been driven down and around on to the pin to epoxy 
the whole assembly  to the tailplane!! 
8. I floxed the upper 3/4 portion of the bush  as that is where the 
crucial bond is needed. I placed the bushes in position wiping up the 
excess and slid the tailplane back into place only as far as the marks I 
placed on the pins. This will  ensure that the pins do no get glued to 
the bushes. Checked the level and allowed to cure. 
9. To place flox around the bushes I used an Aircraft Spruce syringe.

It all worked out well so I repeated the above for the Port tailplane.
The only problem I had was when I  completed the tailplane assembly with 
both tailplanes level, TP13s in place along with the Pip pins, on 
removing the foam supports under each tailplane to keep them level, the 
port tailplane fell 0.4 degrees. On investigation I found that the 
connection of TP12 to TP4 via the pin had that exact degree of play. I 
faxed Europa and Roger replied saying they have occasionally had this 
problem and they are sending an oversized pin for TP12 to ream out the 
hole to rid the play.
I used the 'David Watts Pip pin covers' which worked well.
May be of help to some builders
Cheers,
Tim


-- 
Timothy. P. Ward
26 Tomes Road
Papanui,
Christchurch 8005
NEW ZEALAND
PH 64033525726
Fax 64033525726
Email: ward.t@xtra.co.nz


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