Europa FAQ version 10, last modified 23 December 1998
This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa e-mail
list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed by Ivan Shaw
(with a little help from Don Dykins).
FAQ maintained at present by:
Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro & the Europa community]
europa-club@rowil.clara.net
Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time.
Questions answered (* = changed since last version):
0 Where can I find this FAQ?
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
6 How can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list?
* 7 Can I post encoded messages to the Europa e-mail list?
8 How do I join the Europa Club?
9 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
* 10 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
11 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
12 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
13 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
14 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
15 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
16 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
17 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
18 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
19 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
20 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
21 How will I know I've built it right?
22 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
23 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
24 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
* 25 What engines are available for the Europa?
26 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
27 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
* 10 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft organisation, and you can get help
and advice by joining. In UK, it's the Popular Flying Organisation (PFA)
with local Struts. In USA, it's the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA)
with local Chapters. In France, it's Reseau du Sport de l'Air (RSA).
11 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA, etc).
The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA. If you
live elsewhere, things may be different.
Several books are available on the subject.
Allan J Hall said:
My vote for most useful books would be:
Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis
Firewall Forward - Tony Bingelis
Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue
Jim Campbell said:
Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740 pages
detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits as well as
over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic composite
construction technigues to test flying and dealing with the Feds...
US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881.
1-800-356-7767
Rowland Carson said:
I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your Homebuilt
- the one you'll finish Kitplane Construction
by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack
Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft
Construction by Burt Rutan. All except the last are available from the PFA
bookshop. I can't understand why they don't do the Rutan one - I got mine
---From Aircraft Spruce, who also do a kit of materials to go with it, so you
can try out the techniques on a small scale.
12 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some countries
will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility that you spend
several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then find that:
you have some subtle medical condition that prevents issue of a flight
medical;
you spent so much on building the plane you have no funds left to pay
for training;
you don't really like flying in a small plane;
you just don't seem to have an aptitude for controlling a plane.
OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but maybe
you might have chosen to use your time differently had you known in advance.
13 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
No. The Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license. It is too big,
fast, and heavy to be classed as an ultralight or microlight. The rules
defining microlights are slightly different in different countries, but the
Europa would not meet any of them. As far as formal pilot qualifications
are concerned, it's in the same category as a Cessna 150. However, since
(in its most popular configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger, your
flight safety will be greatly enhanced by having some prior taildragger
experience, and even more by getting some training on the Europa itself
---From a pilot experienced on type before you launch solo.
14 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
-----------------------------------
The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's built one
and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that someone who has
developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling and cannot complete
the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit.
Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of general
pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in the magazines
of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular Flying" & EAA's "Sport
Aviaton"). You can also find them in a Europa-specific forum such as the
Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the Europa internet e-mail list.
You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else build
an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the CAA and the
FAA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain specialist jobs (eg
painting, avionics installation) being done by others, but you should be
prepared to prove that you have done the bulk of the building yourself.
Also, if you buy an aircraft either completed, or on which someone else has
done the majority of work, you may not be allowed to perform maintenance
tasks on it unless you can demonstrate to the appropriate authorities that
you are competent to do so (which you would normally demonstrate by
building the whole thing yourself!).
15 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit:
With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know of is
just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500.
Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete from
Europa Club members:
900
1200
1500+
1580
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000+
2300
2400
2400
2500
2500
~2800
2900
2900
3000
3000+
Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working)
builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with on
first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a concours-winner "show
plane" - or even all of the above!
16 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------------
John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995:
Kit delivered 19250
Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given)
Rotax 914 12500
prop 1500
Inst/avionics 10000
Upholst/paint 1000
-----
Total 45000
Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995:
Type: Item: Total (incl VAT):
Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75
Stage 2 wings 4,641.25
Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50
Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00
Fitting kit 2,937.50
overflow bottle 39.95
rectifier/regulator 41.13
slipper clutch 323.13
vacuum pump 675.63
Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50
Instruments altimeter 199.75
air speed 141.00
vertical speed 129.25
turn and slip 282.00
gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10
directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30
standby compass 70.50
Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42
Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25
Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13
Terra height encoder 207.48
Antenna kit 17.63
GPS 705.00
Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75
navigation lights 176.25
strobe 229.13
landing light 0.00
intercom 30.55
Finish paint 587.50
paint labor 2,750.00
interior trim 587.50
Trailer 1,568.63
workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76
Total: 42,355.69
my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00
Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69
In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds):
Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500
Rotax engine kit # 9,000
Average Instrument Fit # 3,000
(ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches)
Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500
Paint and misc parts # 1,000
Registration & test flying # 1,000
Value Added Tax # 4,725
This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no
professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality will end
up spending nearer 35 - 40,000.
I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay your
hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the region of
1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year
In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia:
The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then
you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs
clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its
insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a quote from
Europa for a part share in a container for any future stages I may choose
to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me $6000.00 approx (2900.00
Pounds).
A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds
Packing 40.00
Crating 115.00
Insurance 16.00
Delivery approx 423.00
Fuselage Kit 5200.00
Packing 60.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 21.00
Delivery 696.00
If both purchased together
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 100.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 1078.00
If both were sent in a container
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 160.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 700.00
17 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when he got
his Europa built back in New Zealand, so when he visited the factory, he
brought a tape measure:
The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at
Kirbymoorside, are as follows.....
Height 84 inches 214 cm
Width 81 inches 206 cm
Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm
18 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
No. There are several other designs of trailer available in UK, including
several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade Trailers, and
Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa Flyer at various
times. You can also design and build your own, as described in Europa Flyer
#12. EAA's Experimenter carried an article on trailers in Vol 18 No 4,
April 1998, pp 11-15 & 40-41.
19 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote:
The list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've come up
with a more expansive (expensive?) list.
Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow them if
possible.
In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill bits
etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the following:
Hand Tools:
Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging
Center punch, automatic
Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to C clamps.
Cold chisel - to cut control cable
Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points
Countersink, 45 degree
Dial caliper - optional but very useful
Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed.
Hacksaw
Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long
Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?)
Hot glue gun
Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level
Long board sander - as used for autobody work
Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?)
Paint pen, optional, available at art stores
Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker
Pad saw (aka back saw)
Pop riveter
Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for many things
including as a mini-squeegee when filling pinholes.
Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife trim stage. Many
other uses.
Respirator, with activated charcoal filters
Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?)
Scribe, carbide tip
Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler.
Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline
Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful
Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well.
Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc.
Tape measure
Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?)
Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred
Tubing cutter
Utility knife
Wire crimper for electrical terminals
Wood chisel, 1/2"
Power Tools:
Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on Tufnol. Handy for
fitting the footwell floors and fuselage rear bulkhead too.
Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks work great
for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming. The drum sanders work well
on glass. The wire brush removes foam and micro from glass prior to
bonding. Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due to
heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll end up buying a
new tool.
Drill press - required
Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save some time since
often one must drill holes and then enlarge or countersink them.
Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice.
Orbital sander - saves time, not required.
Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill.
Router - handy if you happen to have one
Shop vacuum - required
Things you make
Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so that it is
about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a nice fillet when applying
flox or micro in a corner. Wipe it off when you're done and re-use.
It will last forever, preserved in epoxy.
Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold sandpaper worked
for me. Used with electric drill to fit the control stick.
Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued on using rubber
cement.
Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left over from wing
inspection ports instead of plywood - for flexibility.
Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for long board
sander as found at auto stores.
Shop Aprons
Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and squeegees.
Foam blocks work fine for this.
Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber cemented to them.
Make several with different grits.
Consumables
Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making more precise
patterns than using paper. Can be cut with scissors. I found this at
the local newspaper where they use the sheets in the printing process.
Fish line
Hot glue sticks
Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
Masking tape
Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware store. Use
for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts with the sticky nuts.
Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort
Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes, etc. Also use
to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking.
Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper
Sandpaper
Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of vinyl tubing
slipped over the nose to seal to the surface while injecting. Can often
be washed and re-used.
Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go over them. Use
string gloves as liners to absorb perspiration.
I'm not done building yet. Any suggestions for additions to the list?
20 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average
handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or at
least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official reasons
given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is "education". Few
people who have not previously built a foam & glass aeroplane will be
familiar with the techniques, but most will reach an acceptable standard
after some small practice pieces.
21 How will I know I've built it right?
-----------------------------------------
Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical
Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable
standard - may even help you do some things first time around!
You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to make & keep
small samples of each batch of layup that you do, which can be tested to
destruction as proof of strength.
22 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
----------------------------------------------------
Graham Singleton said:
Burt Rutan described the best check I know.
6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface. Squeegee
out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in. If too much
pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres relax. Allow to cure,
cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and weigh. 297 gms is a bit light
and might have air voids. 310 gms is perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your
aircraft was built to this ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40
lbs overweight. (18 Kgs if you must )
23 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
-------------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system causes
least reaction:
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less prone to
provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was allergic to that too.
Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am I allergic to Redux. It's a
matter of personal chemistry, so buy a small amount and try it before
commiting. For me, a respirator wasn't sufficient so I had to get a
Hobbyair to allow work to continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the hardner.
Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's personal
reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to Aeropoxy that a
couple hours in the garage with the wings which had cured for over three
weeks would cause a major reaction, so apparently the amines out-gas for
quite a while. Touching the cured wings also caused serious problems.
Washing the cured parts with a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water -
required before filling anyway - eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to the
gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an epoxy allergy
since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously. Avoid gloves which
use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely to provoke an allergy
and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile gloves are a good alternative.
Use string gloves as a liner to minimize softening of the skin due to sweat
since this increases absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the
latex gloves when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally
impermeable to epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves
when exposed to wet epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is
prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some become
so sensitive that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
24 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is the
ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but they have
delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So, as an aircraft
builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the US, you deal with
the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the aircraft for flight. In
UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but rather a "Permit to Fly", similar
to that issued for a manufacturer's prototype. In USA, they are issued a C
of A in the "Experimental" category.
In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an inspector
appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections, the aircraft
will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of the building process,
preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical Counselor" is required in USA.
Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority must
be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable standard of
workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the builder (ie not built
by a "hired gun") and that it matches the design to agreed tolerances. Any
modifications made by the builder must also be approved.
The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about the
UK paperwork requirements.
* 25 What engines are available for the Europa?
-----------------------------------------------
Europa Aircraft only supply and recommend Rotax engine packages at present.
Other engines are available from independent sources - Europa Aircraft are
not at present pursuing alternative powerplants in-house.
Rotax 912 80bhp (flying)
Rotax 912S 100bhp (test flying, expected to be generally available around
end 1998)
Rotax 914 115 bhp, turbocharged (flying)
NSI Subaru 100bhp & 118bhp (flying)
Mid-West rotary (has flown in at least 2 Europas)
Jabiru 4-cylinder (flying in Jabiru; Europa installation first flown June 1998)
Jabiru 6-cylinder (engine under development)
JPX 4TX90/A flat-4 90bhp (Europa installation being developed by builder in
Italy)
Sauer 90bhp (flying in Austria)
Limbach 2000 EO (Europa installation being developed by Columbian builder)
Wilksch Aeromotive 3-cyl 2-stroke 120bhp turbodiesel (factory trial due 1999)
BMW RS1100 (Reduction drives developed in UK & Germany, flown in other
aircraft)
The majority of Europas now flying use the Rotax 912, which has proved very
reliable in the Europa (and many other aircraft types); although several of
the other engine packages are flying in other designs, not enough are in
service in Europas to make statistically significant comparisons. Engine
installations usually differ from one design of aircraft to another. The
size of propellor that can be used, the cowl shape, and in particular,
changes in the design of cooling ducts, mean that experience in other
designs may not transfer directly to the Europa situation.
26 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the useable internal
width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed.
Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great outdoors
(freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping the rudder
pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about shoulder room.
Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider what
it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less roomy for the
very tall than some of the other kits (such as the Glastar) but then it has
many other advantages over these, such as fuel economy and all-round
elegance. It is much roomier than some of the more direct competition such
as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I believe) and designed it to be
comfortable for him.
The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you have
a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase this (one UK
builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a substantial modification
which could provide the answer). If you have any doubts then find a
finished example and try at least to have a long "sit" - whilst making the
obligatory "brrmming" noises of course.
At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort during
long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of work.
The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a visit
and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder left convinced
that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as to how he must have
been proportioned!
27 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa is
capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up. The snag,
as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right and you have
failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for error and, at a
certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are committed and there is
no room to change your mind.
Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that there
is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never need that room
- but ... but ... but ... but ...
My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I would
be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields.
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
|