Jerry,
Sounds all right to me. One thing I'm reminded to mention - don't use
steel wool on aluminium parts which are going to be anodised. Tiny
particles of steel embed themselves in the surface and contaminate the
process, resulting in small white spots after anodising. (This I learned
the hard way).
Dave Simpson
----------
> From: Jerry <jerry@flyinghi.demon.co.uk>
<gopack@sprintmail.com>; The Gang <europa@avnet.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing
> Date: 31 December 1998 10:47
>
> Mine is not a Europa but similar problems.
> I anodised most aluminium parts. I allodined most of the ones I didn't or
> couldn't anodise. Allodine is not a robust finish so I painted or
varnished
> the allodined parts as well. Most steel parts on my kit were plated,
powder
> coated or primed. Priming does not generally protect against corrosion. I
> think most primers are porous. For some parts I used steel wheel
available
> for painting car wheels. Its inexpensive, quite robust and easy for small
> parts that would no justify getting out two pack paints. I also used
aerosol
> zinc chromate for small parts. Etch primer and epoxy primer and two pack
> polyurethane with UV blocker. Both Allodine and zinc chromate contain
chrome
> and may not be nice materials.
>
> That's what I have done which may or may not be a good idea.
>
> Jerry
>
> Flying Hi - Wish I was
> jerry@flyinghi.demon.co.uk
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Simpson <Dave_Simpson@londonweb.net>
> Date: 31 December 1998 00:10
> Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing
>
>
> >Steve,
> >
> >Don't worry too much about the aluminium (structurally) unless you
operate
> >near the sea or you're fusssy about internal appearances.
> >
> >I've painted my internal steel bits with red lead primer then maroon
> >cellulose top
> >coat. It's a combination which seems to work on other external metalwork
> >I've built.
> >
> >Where there are items which might collect water (anti-balance/trim tab
> >operating T piece ends, flap operating cross tube, perhaps engine
mounts,
> >I've
> >either bunged them up, or sprayed Waxoil inside. You can get neat and
> >light plastic tube bungs for all sizes.
> >Steel parts which show, such as the brake lever, I've had plated (don't
> >forget to ask for de-brittle if there's stress in it). Alu. parts which
> >show I've had polished and anodised. The undercarriage arm I've had
hard
> >anodised 'cos it's likely to see abrasion.
> >
> >I bought stainless screws for external applications such as inspection
> >covers.
> >
> >Best trick is to examine the used Europas at Cranfield to see which bits
> >are rotting or scruffy, and do your finishing to suit.
> >
> >Good luck - don't get carried away.
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >----------
> >> From: Steve Genotte <gopack@sprintmail.com>
> >> Subject: Corrosion Proofing
> >> Date: 30 December 1998 20:50
> >>
> >> Gentle Builders,
> >>
> >> As I gaze longingly/fretfully at my garage full of Europa parts (was
Dr.
> >> Frankenstein nothing more than a misguided homebuilder?) I find myself
> >> looking at the various plates, hinges, rods, etc. and wonder aloud
"How
> >> much of this stuff am I supposed to <insert preferred corrosion
proofing
> >> process here>?"
> >>
> >> Looking forward to your hints,
> >>
> >> Steve G.
> >> A126
> >>
>
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