Definitely worry about the spar clearance - I found it necessary to "modify"
the aileron bellcrank faces to clear the bolts.
The use of a hoist to lower the cockpit module is very convenient (a 2X4 of
the right length will fit nicely into both headrests and is at a good
location for reasonably good balance). I used essentially the same scheme
Bill describes to hang the module and to spread and to support the
fuselage - I can assure you that it makes the task much simpler. Having at
least one other set of hands is likewise very helpful.
Trimming the extra material from the rear of the cockpit module is a very
good idea. I blindly followed the manual only to realize when it was time
to install the baggage compartment bulkhead that it was rather tedious to
make the required cut after bonding (especially since some of it was bonded
to the fuselage sides!)
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bill McClellan
Subject: Re: bonding in the cockpit module
Paul,
The manual doesn't make this real clear but make sure in you get the module
square to the fuselage. Trial fit it and make some marks/lines so it gets
glued in the correct position. The module determines the wing position.
You don't want one wing lower or further back than the other. If the module
is a little off it makes for a bigger deviation out at the wing tips. I
used the deck of the seat back rest behind the head rests as one datum
plane. The fuselage flange (after being trimmed properly) just aft of the
firewall as another, and the tailplane torque tube (which you haven't put in
yet) as the third. You want all three parallel. The top surface of the
foot wells are not as good as both the surfaces slope moving forward and are
hard to see when you site with the other planes to see if they are parallel.
Do compare the foot well to the other three surfaces though.
You put the Redux glue on the module and then drop it in place. The glue
will try to rub off on the fuselage as you slide the module in place. Best
to have several hands to help spread the fuselage sides and assist lowering
the module in place. I used a simple block and tackle overhead to assist
lowering the module. I hooked the sling to the module in the head rest cut
openings and guided the front of the module by hand. Before gluing check
where the module contacts the fuselage and where there are gaps as you will
want the glue to fill all the places it is supposed to contact the fuselage.
I used self tapping screws sparingly (only 10 to 15) to draw the module to
the fuselage. Realize that whether you use screws, rivets or clecos it
potentially locally dimples the fuselage skin or can even more significantly
deforms the fuselage shape. You want the module glued in but with out much
deformation of the fuselage. I didn't draw down the screws tight if there
was a space there as that would for sure dimple the outer skin. The Redux
glue holds well even filling a space of 1/4 inch. Hopefully you won't have
any spaces that large.
I also found that the way you support the fuselage hull changes its shape.
I used a sling or strap around the fuselage right at the rear of where the
module goes as that let the fuselage bottom stay closest to its unloaded
shape. I supported the front of the fuselage with two bolts through the
fselage sides at the firewall to fuselage union. It is rather stiff there
and not prone to deforming with any supporting methods.
I used about 3/4 can of the Redux glue and had some clean up of glue that
oozed from the joints. Make sure you use enough flox in the glue so it
doesn't run. Too much flox in the glue is better than too little. Easiest
to mix in many containers as opposed one or just a few. You might have
someone measuring and mixing as you go. The temperature was about 80 deg F
and I had plenty of time with out the Redux going off but that could be a
concern. The Redux was setting up when I was through positioning and was
cleaning up the ooze from the joints.
You need to trim off a portion of the rear of the module which I don't
believe is in the current manual yet. If this section is not trimmed before
gluing, it will have to be trimmed later to put in the baggage compartment
bulkhead. I can send you a picture of this area trimmed if you wish.
I felt the same way about the spars clearance. Hopefully I won't discover a
problem later.
Good luck,
Bill McClellan
A164
flying wrote:
Hoping to bond the cockpit module into the canoe this weekend - with some
trepidation. Anyone got any hits, tips or major disasters to avoid. Second
thing, I did a trial fitting of the wings to the cockpit module the other
day (used the dummy spar to set the bushes etc.) - very relieved to find it
all lines up but how much clearance have folk got between the stbd spar and
the bolts connecting aileron push rods to CS8 - seems awful close. regards
Paul Stewart #432
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