Jeff,
If you can't get the Pro Seal to work, my suggestion would be to pull
the tank. Once out, you might as well replace it, so the Tap process is
a non issue. Don't heat the tank, especially in the A/C.
When installing the new tank, you might try lining the original glass
layups (if they still exist) with a thin felt. That way the tank can
move, slightly.
Jeff - baby Blue
JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
> To All that responded... THANKS!
> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I
> have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the corner
> of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is bonded onto
> the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as the non giving
> glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in agreement
> with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed in but rather
> fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too late for me now...
> It is however in an area that I can reach it to repair it either using
> pro-seal or the tap plastics product.
>
> Options:
> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the
> tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being
> able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it sets
> up thats not necessary. ???
> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a better
> way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me to cut an
> additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that later.
> BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after
> draining it so I don't blow myself up :o( trying to flame treat the to
> be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into the tank
> and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any
> other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome.
>
> Best regards and thanks to all!!
>
>
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.
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