If you didn't need washers, you installed the mount perfectly.
As for the cut of the rear, you bet it is not uncommon to cut the right
side more than the other.
For offset, I just do the angle of 1 1/16 inch at 20 inches to make the
angle and it is remarkably close.
The cowl actually has a bit of P factor lean on the forward flange.
Before you cut, be sure to have the exhaust fitted and your propeller
flange mounted as you may find it necessary to push the cowl forward a
bit for more clearance and or to get that look just right. Also the
exhaust often needs a bit of adjustment left or right/fore or aft to get
the clearance just right.
As for the cowl:
As you cut, the cowl drops down into the rebate and changes everything
during the fitting. To get it just right, I put two inch tape on the
fuselage rebate line. Now I have a line that is exactly 2 inches longer
than the cowl line. If I push the cowl to the spinner, I then scribe my
cowl using the end of the tape by using a compass and pen. OK, I know
the cowl is now 1/8 too long as is up against the spinner backplate. A
spinner back plate to cowl clearance of 1/8 inch looks very nice. So
all you have to do is cut another 1/8 inch off. Occasionally, there is
a difference from the top to the bottom with the sides fine. Filler
works. Then put a 2 oz. cloth over the filler so it won't crack and
flick off. That is a heck of a surprise in flight.
Some use a technique to leave the spinner a bit high at first as the
engine settles believe it or not. I use 1/16 inch on initial fit if it
has been a while, then re-level the engine again before final drill of
the cowl.
When the cowl is fitted on the floor for smooth sides, it will
occasionally pucker on one or both sides between your clecos when
installed on the plane (I start with 3/32 inch then go up in
increments). Gravity works 24/7 and you will note that the sag in the
cowl due to gravity will pull the nose down a bit and this causes
puckers in the side. Once the cowl fits inside the rebate, I work the
cowl sides to tart from the front and push the most forward pucker in
and re-drill the cleco hole and go aft to the next pucker. It cuts down
on filler....
Best regards.
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: graeme bird<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 3:39 PM
Subject: Europa-List: cowl cutting - bak edge
<graeme@gdbmk.co.uk<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>>
before I cut the back edge of the XS cowl for a 912S I'd like to check
that its normal to take about 2mm off the port side and 12 mm off the
starboard. I realise the engine is 1.5 off to starboard but I dont know
if the cowl design caters for this already. My engine didnt need any
adjustment washers and I measured the angle at 1.57 deg.
Thanks
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
Build nearing completion
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