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Rob,
Attached is a drawing of how I round off my springs and a photo of how
we keep the spring from grinding into the steel frame by using small
bits of stainless.
Note that I install the springs with the openning forward. Please note
the left and right hand wind requires you to place the springs so that
they do not rub against the center tube.
The springs can be installed facing aft but the last snap in is a bit
difficult unless the entire wheel well is open or you are very strong.
Forgive me that I do not have my tech article on how to install the
springs any longer as folks were just not having problems and it went to
archive somewhere. Bob Borger and Gary Leinberger may have photo's of
us doing theirs if you ask..
Please round over the spring as per the drawing to make snapping the
spring over the top tube less painful. You may do the lower part as
well.
One indispensible tool is a piece of stainless cable with handles on
both ends to snap the spring up and over the top. I have one of the
guys standing on the wheel well and pull it up to snap in the spring
over the upper tube. Then he bounces on the front until the 5/16 and
1/4 inch bolts fall out.
The other nice to have tool is a set of threaded rods with a couple of
curved ends to help hold the gear up while I install, but rope or a
strap works also...I just like steel to protect me from a rope brake or
strap slip. It takes me with two helpers (for added weight), about 45
minutes to install the springs.
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Small pieces of stainless between the spring and frame glued in or
just set in sealant will keep the spring from scratching up your frame
and rusting later on. Even with an engine on you can see that putting a
cable through the hook on the spring and pulling from above is an easy
safe method to snap the spring in. Technique: I normally put the
engine on to add weight when I am doing this operation alone. I put a
strap around the gearbox and nose gear leg to pull the spring a bit to
get the bolts to fall out then repeat.
Please use safety precautions so as not to injure yourself when
stretching and installing the springs and you will find it is an easy
install.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Advisor
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: G-IANI<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 5:28 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement
with springs
Rob
I have attached a copy of Mod 71 issue 3 for information.
The radius of the upper hook should be 38mm to fit the frame tube (
the lower is 32mm).
I am not aware of any batch of springs which have been out of
tolerance. If yours are please let Europa know.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Sent: 27 August 2011 21:24
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with
springs
I=92ve encountered another one of those =93minor=94 problems I have
come to accept as normal with the factory=92s step child, the Tri-Gear.
The diameter of the Landing Gear Frame is 1.55 inch (39.4 mm) and the
opening in the spring that must hook onto it is 1.35 inch (34.3 mm).
This seems to allow for either of two solutions, neither one
particularly elegant. 1) use brute force to deform the hook in the
spring, 2) cut off some of the end of the hook.
Comments and suggestions from those who have perhaps already dealt
with this, or anyone else for that matter, would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics soon
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