William, You can of course stick a go fast stripe over the join line,
but if your 'amour propre' insists on a perfect finish then fill any low
areas and sand it all down to a perfect finish. You should in any case
sand all the gel coat surface down to complete matness without the
smallest bit of refective surface visible, to give the optimum key to
whatever paint system you plan to use. One word of warning on which: The
release agent used in the original gel coat mould is a strong allergy
inducer. Make very sure you have washed all gel coated surfaces very
thoroughly before you start sanding them and wear a good mask. You might
be totally immune to normal fibreglass dust but get caught out by the
gel coat dust which is a more sinister animal!
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
On 2015-01-06 22:31, Fred Klein wrote:
>> On Jan 6, 2015, at 11:03 AM, William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I have a visible join the upper half lip being slightly proud as a result
>> sliding
down over the bottom half. The joint is good and the difference is slight.
>>
>> What is the normal practice for the visible join line between the fuze
>> halves?
Does one have to sand down to the epoxy or can one fill on top of sanded the
gel coat?
>
> Will...I had the opposite problem...i.e., my lower half was proud, and problem
solved by adding spacers at each cleco and thickening the Redux bed. For your
case, i'd of course remove the gel coat along the edge of the upper half and
rough up the gel coat on the lower half; I don't think it's necessary to remove
the entire gel coat in order to add the requisite filler. Perhaps others w/
more knowledge than I will make other recommendations.
>
> Fred
>
Links:
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[2] http://www.buildersbooks.com
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[4] http://www.mypilotstore.com
[5] http://www.mrrace.com
[6] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[8] http://forums.matronics.com
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