Time for my two cents:
Bob Berube introduced me to using the self tapping screws but caution is
necessary.
To fit the top I use US 3/32 inch clecos. This type of cleco does not pull
through as easily since the lower flange is four layers. After fitting the
top for the fourth time or more, sometimes I have to upgrade to 1/8 inch.
We have probably close to 500 clecos so no big deal for us.
For those using the British style temporary fastener:
I will use washers with the British style fastener as the lip on these
fasteners deteriorate the hole in fiberglass pretty quick. If I have to put
on a washer, I have to prep the area, and I glue the washer on with super
glue. Lasts a long time. Gluing is all about the prep. I wash the whole
kit first with TSP or detergent to remove the release wax. Then I clean the
joint with acetone and scotch brite. If you sand, and it makes dust, it's
ready to glue. No dust on sanding, bad joint.
Like Ron and many others, I will screw on my top on final, because I can put
the screw in and pull down until the skins come to a nice fit. Don't pull
the screw down hard and force the two skins to pull down so hard as to
squeeze all the glue out. Nor do you want the screw to pull the outer skin
away from the inner. It's a technique. Be careful. Screws are the same
principle as the screw type temp fastener, which can be pulled down too
tight as well.
Technique:
To get a nice fit, and get control of my joint, I open up my top side holes
a bit to allow the screw to spin and not grip, and then allow the self
tapping screw threads to bite into the lower so I can adjust the skin pull
down with careful screw gun use...
As for fit. I try to keep the sides level, but don't worry. Just fill it.
The sides are flat on the kit, and I like to fill the sides then block a
nice curvy rounded side. If the filler ever gets beyond 3/32 inch, consider
putting a layer of 2 oz. glass over the filler. Peel ply and its ready for
a bit more filler... No cracking. If you are worrying about your walkway
area showing cracks around the wing fillet to skin, we lay one layer of
carbon from just behind the wing spar out to the first forward rib to
stiffen the skin, and to prevent cracks in the filler which is scary seeing
cracks in your wing. Filler is a necessary evil in a composite airplane.
Learn the technique. I started learning to fill by doing my wheel pants. I
have found that nice wheel pants take as long to fill as the fuselage. All
those curvy fillets are a pain.
Have a happy new year you all.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
--------------------------------------------------
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2015 8:09 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Fuselage join
> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Hi Group
>
> As far as the fuse seam joint: "awe, just screw it"!
>
> I used Clecos for a gazillion on and offs, but screws that captured very
> nice.
>
> I detailed my top bond on, could save a bunch of bullets in your foot:
> http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=35521
> (3 pages)
>
> There are more notes than this so study pics and my notes. Here are a few:
> ** pay attention for need to trim sternpost (easy to overlook)
> ** as I noted use enough fasteners, you can see recovery (I found out when
> I cut vent hole)
> ** my kit was missing foam and second layer of glass on the inboard side,
> so I added foam and glass
> ** My fin ribs fit terrible, so I mutilated and made them fit
> ** poor fit starboard side corner fixed by "dolphin" repair
>
> Good luck.
> Top bond on was a fun part of build! Enjoy.
> Sincerely
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436762#436762
>
>
>
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