Will,
I=99m attaching photos here and will post to your off line email
if you can=99t see them here...
Again, in the US we can modify from the manual so consult your
country=99s rules.
This works really well for cooling and maintenance.
First photo in the album is the firewall installed with Aircraft Spruce
Firewall 2000 kit (P/N 05-00950) material. This can be smooth,
depending on the customers patience. See the 2nd to last photo.
Next is the back side of the plywood panel, fuel and brake install
details, then more firewall close ups and interior tunnel details...
I also make a brake support bracket for those not wanting to cut the
tunnel top. I made this for 12AY when I went from Kart brakes to
Matco=99s. I=99m happy (which is rare).
The 2nd to last photo is of a all stainless steel cover I did over my
Aircraft Spruce Firewall material. Overkill but pretty and no slivers
as it is all installed with smooth fasteners. Time consuming.
I simply make the cutout for the mono per the manual and then expand it
a bit in the aft as I=99m lazy and like more room for inserting
the springs.
Install the gear frame per the manual and drill it in but don=99t
bolt it in yet.
Remove the frame and cut a piece of ply to allow the gear frame to be
clear, and lean it toward the front to allow room for throttle and
brakes.
Flox the corners and glass the front side of the ply with two layers of
glass. I glass the back side also for a very strong bulkhead, but glass
on the front is all you need.
I also plan a lower access hole to assure maintenance access.
For those who desire to do the reinforcing and cut the top of the tunnel
off and make an access panel read on:
I install my brakes on a C shaped support and fit my Matco or Jamar
brakes, parking brake, conduits, fuel lines, filters and all that stuff
before I put on the top.
For any install:
Install the rudder pedals and plan your rudder cables. You can see I
sheath mine in nylaflow tube
I then remove it and fit in my firewall panels sides then top, finally
the back piece. Use the tube of Fire seal 2000 supplied in the Aircraft
Spruce kit.
Being a purest I normally cut the pieces 1/2 inch over sized, then trim
off the back aluminum and fireproofing material, and fold over the
stainless over the ugly end. Very neat.
We normally line the entire front side with .016 stainless to make a
neat fuel proof seal around the leading edge.
I leave a lip of 1/2 inch around the bottom of the cutout to be able to
seal the firewall material at the bottom and make a nice clean belly
exit.
Install your rub blocks and press on.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Re: Europa-List: Cooling
https://onedrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=browse
&resid=2161856909618AA7!754&parId=2161856909618AA7!130&type=5&authk
ey=!AJMmyEAlI6FgRr8&Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos
From: Bud Yerly
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cooling
Will,
I'll dig up some photos when I get back next week. Pretty easy to do
with the engine off.
If you want to leave the firewall alone, consider making the exit of the
cowl wider as in Cooling 101.
Bud Yerly,
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Aug 11, 2015 6:58 PM, William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
wrote:
Thanks again Bud,
The thing is that I have the engine installed and the firewall done per
the manual. Id be loath to undo it all however if thats what it
takes.....
Do you have an instruction of how to put the firewall behind the nose
gear frame? Or a picture at least. I can imagine roughly how it might
be done...im thinking putting in a bulkhead and lining it and the
tunnel with firewall blanket. I assume the bottom is not covered
allowing the air to exhaust.
Thanks
Will
On Aug 11, 2015 4:33 PM, "Bud Yerly" <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
Will,
Only the sealing of the radiators and the opening up of the exit area
by moving the firewall are necessary, provided you increase climb speed
on long duration climbs. 12AY and most others still cool quite well
with just sealing the radiator gaps, leaving the cowl stock, and moving
the firewall to behind the nose wheel.
Mono's can use our flat firewall to increase cooling exit air.
If you have long ground taxi, must do max performance angles of climb
in 30C or hotter weather, is engine plenum ducting necessary.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Aug 11, 2015 9:17 AM, William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
wrote:
Buds instructions are pretty comprehensive as usual
I shall move the round intake holes up to level with the spinner as
suggested.
I would very much like to see any pics of cooling shrouds/ducts. the
aluminium shrouds on Bud's website look like a lot of work.
thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
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