Steve and John,
Sorry I missed your post John.
Perhaps we should go off line to get into the nitty gritty. Many times it is
how
we level and how much can we fudge.
I'd like to know some history on your build, Classic/XS then discuss. Email:
budyerly@msn.com
Leveling is a process.
I use a piece of aluminum angle and it on the wing spar bolts out of the cockpit
bulkhead and then set my 2 foot digital level on the angle.
To compare, I set the digital level on the stab tube facing forward. Don't flip
the level, it will most likely be slightly different.
If the wing pins and stab tube are level. That is great.
It is not uncommon to get the top on slightly askew.
If the two wing pins and stab tubes are level within .5 degrees on a fully
complete
aircraft, I have to accept that.
In the build, once cockpit module is set, I level to the wing pins in the back
seat bulkhead. I then set my stab tube. The fuselage is flexible and once the
tube is set it is necessary to use blocking/timbers to set the stab and wing
pins dead even.
Then put the top on and drop a plumb bob down the tail post. Cleco the top in
place
to get the tail vertical to the wings and stab tube. With the tailplanes
blocked up, pull the clecos and glue the top up. Put the top on and I screw
it down as you can read in my techniques area.
On a salvaged Classic Kit to straighten up the plane (my 12AY was one of these)
I replaced my stab tub bearings and releveled the tubes to the wing pins.
On the Classic foam fin, it is tough to do but essentially, I cut the fin off
carefully,
then rebuild. It sounds awful but not much more than a couple days
and a lot of dust.
Then glue it up. Tape the joint line again and fill, fill, fill.
The XS is a pain. There are remedies but I'm afraid all are somewhat painful.
Again, it comes down to how you measure. Do I care if the area between the
doors
at the top is slightly off? Not really. People don't notice that. They notice
when the fin is leaning in comparison to the wings and tailplane.
Email me direct and we'll hopefully find an acceptable solution.
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Steve Ivell
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2021 5:58 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Twisted fuselage, or?
Hi John
As every aircraft is hand made I would expect there to be minor variances on
just
about every single aircraft.
Changing the rear wing pin sockets is a big process particularly as it is
attached
to the internal cross tube which was added to increase the gross weight. MOD
52. I'd leave well alone and see how it flies.
Other members with much more experience may be able to give a better reply such
as Bud Yearly.
Kind Regards
Steve Ivell
Mob: 07971 128842
E-mail: steveivell@pestproof.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of John Kirkgaard
Sent: 14 May 2021 13:49
Subject: Europa-List: Twisted fuselage, or?
--> <john.kirkegaard@gmail.com>
It looks like I will need some very good advice from you fellow builders.
I have measured the fixtures and torque tubes on my Europa a few times.
Unfortunately I come to the same result in spite of using different methods.
First I level up the fuselage making it 100% level in both directions.
Then I measure down to the center of the pin hole forward wing pin bracket, on
both sides. Using a horizontal laser-line.
The elevation of the two wing fixings are found to be in exactly same level.
Then measuring the level of the rear fixings shows that starboard wing pin
socket
is sitting 8 mm higher than the port one.
The measuring the Flap tube I find that the Starboard side is also 9 mm higher
than the port side.
Going to the Tail plane Torque Tube I find the same picture there.
And same for the foot wells.
So the solution seems to be quite forward: change the position of the rear wing
pin sockets, and ignore, that the fuselage will not be in level between the
doors.
But... During all measuring, the rudder is absolutely plumb. And my question to
you guys: what will happen if I correct everything and leave the rudder approx.
10-11 mm out of plumb?
Thanking in advance for any reply.
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