Kelvin,
I've never had a great deal of difficulty but as you are well aware, we all have
to adjust things around to get everything to fit. It is a game of fractions
of inches.
In installing the ring mount, I modify the angles on the water pump inlets from
cylinders 2 and 4. I personally run them through the V. I do a considerable
amount of preplanning before I mount anything anymore. Blindly following
instructions
in a hope it all fits has never worked out for me on any of the homebuilts
I completed. I'm not a mechanic, I'm a dumb old pilot with an engineering
degree that has learned almost everything the hard way. Take notes, take
your time, trial fit everything. I use many 3/32 clecos to keep the holes small
when fitting.
On the one inch hose coming from the top of the spider to the port side cooler
inlet I do the same for the 912S as the 914. I carefully measure and mark the
hose from the spider to the inlet area of the port carb and airbox. I install
the 1 inch hose after cutting so the hose lies right on top of the ring mount.
I slip on a piece of hose to the M10 bolt threads attaching the ring mount
to the engine frame to prevent chaffing. I normally do not bolt up my duct
until
I run the one inch hose down to get the clearance I want from the engine
and firewall studs. Once I have the hose planned, I fix the duct where I need
the nipple to fit. I then fit my duct. With the duct all clecoed final in
place,
I then cut my hose.
I have one 912S aircraft that required me to take the hoses off the spider and
slightly elevate and twist the spider to fit the 1 inch hose exactly where I
wanted
it to go. Alas, I had to buy a short piece of 17 mm hose from Rotax as
I needed #3 upper hose to be a bit longer. I did not put a block under the
spider
tank. It hangs on the hose and has worked for many years. I'm attaching
a photo from a complaint I had with my painter on that particular plane. Rather
dusty engine with a lot of overspray which I later made him clean but it shows
the upper hoses and how it laid. See attached.
Finally a technique on hose access. I make my side supports that hold the duct
up with holes on both sides for easy access to the clamps. I actually modify
the port brace to allow the duct to slide up and down past the muffler for a
quick duct drop if needed. Of course, nut plates everywhere in the
firewall/footwell.
That makes for much more comfortable duct removal.
I have made modifications to the rudder return spring holder bolts to protect
the
rubber down pipe where they interfere. Normally an acorn nut on the end of
the threaded bolt for a smooth surface touching the hose if it is only close.
If really tight, because the duct is placed too far aft, I fashion a piece of
aluminum as a protective buffer. If the duct was moved too far forward or back,
I sometimes just repair and move it. It happens.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
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