Ya, meant the rotax style. I have the same as you, ballish ring clamped wi
th floating flange.
My heads were properly ruined with fretting and leaking, in addition to thre
e cracked headers (one at a time) .all due to torsional resonance w
ith my original (heavy) three blade warp drive taper blade fixed pitch prop a
nd the resultant pocketed gearbox dogs.
To rescue the heads I had to lap them with the an exhaust ball-end, but they
would still leak due to the pitting. The Honda copper crush gaskets proved
leak and trouble free.
P/N 18291-MN5-650 per the attached photo.
I did end up replacing my gearbox dogs (and thus the gearset sadly $$$), and
upgraded to the super light wieght CS E-prop and all my issues have disappe
ared :-D. And the replaced dogs still look like new after 400hrs. I=99
m confident that the dogs were pocketed during Troy=99s initial 250hrs
.
No more resonance or cracked exhausts since (they were cracking every 70hrs o
r so).
Cheers,
PeteZ
> On Jan 5, 2024, at 3:26=AFPM, n7188u <chmgarb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Peter,
>
> Not sure what the sleeved one is (the Rotax style?) but I have a CKT muffl
er purchased 3+ years ago. Just a ball(ish) or taper looking ring at the end
of the tube.
>
> What is this Honda copper gasket you use?
>
> I looked at it again today and in reality the leak is very minor and no ob
vious gap is visible. But again I am concerned about deterioration of the al
uminum surface on the head.
>
> For now I ordered the Hylomar seal compound and I will thoroughly clean th
e surfaces and will reinstall with that.
>
> I also heard something about Bud having a lapping procedure for this. I ap
preciate all advice.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=513022#513022
>
>
>
>
>
>
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