Brian,
Just did this myself last month. I used self tapping metal screws, but I
set the drag on my drill very low for two reasons:
1. the screws strip out the fiberglass at high torque
2. the screws dimple the fuselage at high torque
I also used bolts with washers and nuts in a few essential places like
the firewall to ensure contact. Screws were installed from inside the
module. I have lots of holes, but very little dimpling. No problem at
all with hardware removal.
Despite tons of great advise, I have voids. No problem. I also have a
drill, a syringe, and a little more Redux. Recommend 4 bodies for the
job. Time gets tight on the Redux pot life.
GRoberts
A187
Tucson
wings done
cockpit in
>
> Howdy Gents:
>
> Well, I have been busy this holiday weekend in my shop prepping to
> bond this
> module in next week. Actually took an extra day of vacation Friday
> to spend
> in the shop.
>
> I think by end of day today I'll be comfortable enough to set this
> baby in.
> I have a hoist and will buy a strap come along today for the area
> around the
> head rests.
>
> Naturally... I have questions. John Eckell wrote the he and Steve
> used about
> 600 grams of Araldite < weight without hardener for the module.>
>
> That close to what everyone else experienced?
>
> They also used about 120 #8 X 1/2 sheet metal screws to pull this
> thing
> together. That's a lot!
> How do you get them to release from the Araldite after cure?
>
> Someone mentioned a lot of dimpling from the screws after cure?
> Anyone have a
> fix for that?
>
> I understand the bright light shining under the canoe to check for
> voids.
>
> What method do you use to fill the voids if found?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Brian S
> A276 Tri Gear. Texas
> See my build photos at:
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/BrianS
>
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