Karl, sorry about not being sufficiently specific in my suggestion. I was
suggesting that the add on aluminum tube could be electroless nickel plated
in order to have the new tube and the original TP4 (which is already nickel
plated, but not with Teflon(tm)added) have similar material on the mating
surfaces. Unlike electrodeposited nickel which would be tricky to plate
inside a tube, the electroless stuff can be applied to the ID of a tube.
To more directly answer your question about in situ plating....no, it would
not be easy to deposit electroless nickel (with or without the slippery
stuff) to the torque tube already installed, primarily because the process
requires the temperature to be close to the boiling point of the solution in
order to work.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS Tri-Gear
S/N A070
Airframe complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
Rob,
You seem to know a lot about this. But would it be possible to apply to an
installed torque tube, i.e. would the platers be able to work with my
fuselage on a trailer ?
Regards,
Karl
>From: "Rob Housman" <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
>Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
>To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
>Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 12:48:46 -0700
>
>
>In re: Teflon (tm)
>
>Do an advanced search in Google for all of the word "electroless nickel
>teflon" and you will get many hits for shops that can deposit electroless
>nickel with particles of Teflon(tm). This coating will be the most
>compatible with the nickel plated torque tube and have the best lubricity.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rob Housman
>Irvine, California
>Europa XS Tri-Gear
>S/N A070
>Airframe complete
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
>Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 11:57 AM
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
>
>
>Hi Bill and Sue,
>
>Some builders pointed out a potential corrosion problem with my choice of
>aluminum. There are other choices. George Powell obtained a steel tube from
>a builder in Germany, and whoever supplies the TP5/TP6 to Europa would
>obviously also be able to supply a longer cut.
>I like the idea of a Teflon coat on the TP4, but wouldn't have a clue on
>how
>
>to apply it.
>I am not really concerned about the corrosion issue. The torque tube is
>prone to corrosion anyway, when moisture is present. I have seen the
>corrosion on the exterior of other Europas, and if the exterior corrodes
>then you can be sure that the tube's interior is corroded as well, unless
>the necessary steps were taken before assembly .
>I always apply a good coat of lithium grease, and the tailplanes should be
>pulled off at least twice a year for a n inspection. I never had a problem
>in that area.
>
>Removal of TP5:
>
>I tried it the hard way by making a micro oven inside an aluminum tube,
>using a 20W halogen bulb and an oven thermometer with a remote probe for
>accurate temperature control. The thermometer had an upper display limit of
>200 degrees, and that was not hot enough to soften the redux I had used as
>an adhesive. I have now seen another oven thermometer with a much higher
>limit, but I have discarded that technique, unless I wanted to remove the
>TP6.
>
>Using the same tube, and with the inside opening sealed with a
>heatresistent
>
>material (felt chair glides), I applied a good dose of heat with a
>blowtorch. The tailplane is in an upright position, so that no heat finds
>its way into the foam area. Using a narrow kitchen knife I probed the
>adhesive on the outside of the TP5. When the redux had softened enough I
>removed the heat and cut around the TP5 with the same knife, which had a
>serrated edge and I was using it like a saw.
>For the removal of the tube you need a locking pair of longnose pliers.
>Lock
>
>it onto the edge and slowly remove the thing with a turning motion. You may
>have to cut away a tiny bit of the plywood rib (2 x 5mm) to make room for
>the pliers.
>
>Now having said all that, I suggest you ignore the two techniques above.
>Next time I would simply use the knife and heat it with a blowtorch before
>cutting into the adhesive.
>I didn't do any damage to the foam.
>
>Installing the new TP5:
>
>You need a small flashlight so you can see exactly what is inside the
>tailplane.
>Do a trial fit of the new tube and see if it butts right up against the
>TP6.
>
>If there is any adhesive on the edge of the TP6, then don't disturb it, but
>grind a piece out of the edge of the long tube.
>I had to do that on both sides.
>Once you have a satisfactory fit, mark the tube where it needs to be cut
>off. I used a hacksaw and belt sander to do the necessary trimming.
>Now take the tailplane and do a trial dry fit on the aircraft.
>Remove the new TP5.
>Use a narrow long spatula to apply floxed epoxy to the foam walls and over
>the old adhesive. The flox should be fairly wet, and you need only coat the
>first two thirds of the hole.
>Put a liberal coat of neat epoxy on the tube exterior and insert it slowly
>with a turning motion.
>The tailplane is in the horizontalposition, and at the halfway mark remove
>the surplus flox which has been pushed ahead of the tube. Remove more flox
>again when the tube is fully inserted.
>Now take some time to remove alltrace of adhesive inside the tubes. I used
>rags dampened with acetone, on a long stick. I believe that vinegar can
>also
>
>be used, if you are concerned about foam damage.
>That is about it. Mount the tailplane on the torque tube to ensure perfect
>alignment of the two tubes. If the alignment is not perfect, then adjust by
>applying pressure at the tailplane tip in different directions until the
>TP4
>
>slides in all the way. Make sure also that it was well greased.
>After 4-5 hours of curing pull the tailplanes off again, just to make sure
>that there is no bonding going on in case some more epoxy has seeped out of
>the gap onto the TP4.
>Then push it back on and leave overnight.
>
>Hope that helps,
>
>Karl
>
>
> >From: Bill and Sue <bill.sue@orcon.net.nz>
> >Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
> >Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:55:56 +1300
> >
> >
> >Yes I would be interested as I have not done mine yet .
> >
> >Mono XS
> >ZK CHV
> >914 Airmaster
> >
> >Rgds
> >
> >Sue & Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >Karl Heindl wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>My original plan was to replace both TP5 and TP6 with a single tube.
> >>After removing the TP5 I realized that there was no point at all in
> >>removing the TP6. It is only necessary to ensure that it cannot move
> >>inboard, which would then allow the TP12 to disconnect from the
>tailplane
> >>etc. etc.
> >>I simply replaced the TP5 with a longer alu tube from ACS, part number
> >>03-37900. This butts right up against the TP6, and there is no way this
> >>can ever move inboard. The tube is made of 6061 T6 aluminum.
> >>Advantages:
> >>A straightforward mod.
> >>No cutting into the tailplane.
> >>No misalignment problem with TP5 and TP6.
> >>A permanent solution. ( assuming that there was a problem in the first
> >>place.)
> >>If anyone is interested I can give more details on how I did it.
> >>
> >>Cheers,
> >>
> >>Karl
> >>
> >>_________________________________________________________________
> >>The next generation of Hotmail is here! http://www.newhotmail.co.uk
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>__________ NOD32 2607 (20071022) Information __________
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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