yes true, but I believe that the annodes used on outboard motors are zinc,
being more reactive than the alloy
thus the alloy and the nickle should both become cathodes and therefore not
corrode. The annodes are consumed
moderately quickly, but it works quite well.
As to the teflon i see most people in favour of, you may be able to do it
yourself, by using the teflon engine treatments
and boil the parts in the solution for an hour or so. they work well in your
engine too, I used one (NULON brand) in a car
I was having overheating issues in (bigger engine than standard, no room for
bigger radiator) and one treatment dropped the
running temp by around 20c. I use it in all my motors now, even though i
normally run a fully synth race oil as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 12:44 AM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
You are on the right track Craig, but you missed the obvious aluminum is
a sacrificial anode relative to the nickel plated tube.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS Tri-Gear
S/N A070
Airframe complete
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of craig bastin
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:52 AM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
A couple of sacrificial annodes would resolve the issue of corrosion I
think, same as on outboard motors for boats
but it is a good point, or if you had the clearance, maybe powder coating
the torque tube, or caster oil, only problem
with caster oil is it remains tacky, as all the data i have seen on caster
oil suggests the only way to remove it completely from a metalic
surface is to machine about 1mm off the surface
you could simulate an accelerated situation by putting the old bush (tp5)
and a piece of the alloy tube in a salt water bath for a week
and see what happens, ideally in the same relation as in the aircraft ie
one inside the other.
just had another thought, maybe a teflon treatment might do the trick on
the torque tube or both if you have done the mod yet
it would make the tube real easy to get on and off too.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter Zutrauen
Sent: Tuesday, 23 October 2007 9:11 PM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
Hi Karl,
The only concern I would have is dissimilar metal corrosion on the
torque tube. Not sure how to prevent it between the alu and the torque tube
plating besides lots of grease. I suspect that the grease will not be
enough however. With the sliding on/off and then sitting in one spot, I
would expect some metal on metal contact with the grease being wiped off.
Hope I'm wrong, but I've seen too much dissimilar metal corrosion in a
variety of situations.
Cheers,
Pete
On 10/22/07, Karl Heindl <kheindl@msn.com> wrote:
My original plan was to replace both TP5 and TP6 with a single tube.
After removing the TP5 I realized that there was no point at all in
removing
the TP6. It is only necessary to ensure that it cannot move inboard,
which
would then allow the TP12 to disconnect from the tailplane etc. etc.
I simply replaced the TP5 with a longer alu tube from ACS, part number
03-37900. This butts right up against the TP6, and there is no way this
can
ever move inboard. The tube is made of 6061 T6 aluminum.
Advantages:
A straightforward mod.
No cutting into the tailplane.
No misalignment problem with TP5 and TP6.
A permanent solution. ( assuming that there was a problem in the first
place.)
If anyone is interested I can give more details on how I did it.
Cheers,
Karl
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