Frans and other frustrated riggers,
Keep your frustration level lower by looking into my typical setup.
Done this way, I can rig a new Europa in about an hour. If not it can
take all day.
Laws for initial setup:
The CS 08s and sticks must be vertical in the fuselage with the QD
vertical with all the push rods rigged and tight.
The short link rod to the aileron is only set once at the full aileron
stop.
Set your long push rods so that when the aileron is level, the quick
disconnect is 90 degrees to the line between the main spar pins. If you
cannot rig the QD at the root to vertical with the aileron level, you
have the rod the wrong length, or an assembly error.
The aileron mass balance arms must allow full down aileron travel of 22
degrees. I make sure I have nearly 24 degrees to allow for finishing.
If you cannot get 22 degrees down, you must decrease your up stop
accordingly.
Aileron root closeouts must allow full aileron up and down without
contact.
Now start your adjustments.
1st. Always set your stop in each wing to the up stop limit. I use 24
degrees (vice 25.5) from experience. The aileron on your hinge should
show on the protractor 24 degrees (measured at the hinge) and the short
link rod set so the bell crank is hard against the up stop. Do the
other wing the same way.
2nd. Rig the fuselage quick disconnects and sticks to vertical.
3rd. Rig the wings. Shim your QDs to take out the slop in the ailerons
using phenolic or aluminum shims. Typically I premake the shims when I
make the initial wing rig. I just super glue them on for the initial
setup. Remember, when you Redux the shims on, the Redux is nearly
1/64th of an inch, so compensate.
4th. With all slop removed, you should now be able to check the
positions of the ailerons. If built by the book, they should be within
1/4 inch of level.
Important! You adjust the long lateral rod to correct the aileron to
the center position, not the outer.
5th. Disconnect the QD from the wing root and rotate the rod about 1
turn per 3/16 inch until the aileron is centered.
Repeat for the other wing.
With both wings rigged again, check your throw. You should hear and
feel the aileron bell crank hit the up stop with the deflection of 24
degrees up without the opposite mass balance arms hitting the skin of
the opposite wing. Try it both ways. If the mass balance arms hit, you
will have to reduce the max throw or correct the arm.
If you have the time and want more throw, reset the up stop to 25
degrees and repeat. I never do because your knees determine max aileron
throw most of the time.
Some problems occur with stick movement when the aileron bell crank, CS
08, in the fuselage binds against the pitch tube (especially with the
stick aft) or were not set vertical properly during build. Moving the
stick forward or blocking the stabilator to level will allow you to
continue the aileron rig.
It only took me about 8 aircraft trimmings to learn this. Relax, it is
a bit more of a chore with a glider wing.
Both wings do rig well and even limited to 24 degrees of up, you will be
delighted with the roll rate.
Frans, for your situation it sounds like you need to just work the right
wing, but when in doubt, start over.
Happy building and I hope it works out. If you have a build error which
needs correcting, email me at budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>.
Bud Yerly,
Custom Flight Creations
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: Frans Veldman<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 4:58 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron setup
<frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>>
The aileron setup procedure is driving me nuts. The right aileron has
way too much down movement. If I shorten the link rod (as recommended by
the manual), the down movement gets less, almost correct (now only 0.7
too much), but then the up movement exceeds the upper limit. The left
aileron is working ok. That means: it does everything a bit less than
the right aileron.
1) What could be causing this? I have set up everything according to
the manual, as far as I know. I suspected that the distance between the
aileron hinge and the bolt for the link rod would be incorrect, but
after measuring it, it is correct for both ailerons. I'm puzzeled by
this. Is it possible that one of the factory holes for one of the bell
cranks is incorrectly positioned, so that the lever action for both
ailerons isn't equal?
2) How do I solve it? Is this something that I can tune away with one
of the various link/push/connecting rods?
3) Am I the only one with this problem? I can't find anything in the
archives about this...
Thanks in advance for any ideas...
Frans
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