JW wrote:
>...
> Those full width lay-ups are especially difficult. For part
> of it I used a tough piece of cardboard, covered in packing tape (duct tape
> works
> too), and folded it to fit in that full width lay-up area. It held the bid in
> place during the cure. Then I was able to pull it out. The result was a
> perfectly straight and beautiful lay-up.
>
> Jeff
Bob Berube, erstwhile Europa at Lakeland, passed on a little tip.
Take a 4x4 piece of lumber, chamfer the corner, and use it to make a
form for the corner flange layup. Usual techniques -> lumber, release
film, BID layers, then peel ply. After cure, trim to suit, then affix
with epoxy structural adhesive, in my case Aeropoxy ES6279. Very
versatile stuff.
The angle isn't quite 90 degrees, so if I had to do again, I would
have attacked the lumber form with a rotary rasp. Or simply taken a
heat gun to the corner of the cured part and massage the angle
needed. I ended up with 3 holes and 1/8" aluminum pop rivets each
side thru the seat backs to glomp out excess glue. In my experience,
good structural adhesive is better than laminating resin, but leaving
the rivets in place, the flange supporting the tank seems ain't goin'
nowhere, ever. Very easy overall.
Best,
Fred F,
N3EU
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